7 Days from Edzna to Calakmul
A journey through the Chenes hills, Rio Bec cities and the remote forests of Campeche.
Introduction
Southern Yucatan contains some of the most remote and atmospheric Maya sites in Mexico. This itinerary follows a gradual progression from Bacalar into the Maya forest cities of Quintana Roo and Campeche, ending in Calakmul.
Over 7 days, the route connects Dzibanche, Becan, El Hormiguero, and Calakmul, among others, focusing on a selected number of sites connected by geography, remoteness, and architectural evolution.
This itinerary assumes the use of a rental car, which are plentiful at the Chetumal airport.
At a glance
Entry point
Campeche airport, in Campeche (days 1 & 7)
Bases
Campeche, Hopelchen, Xpujil & Calakmul
Duration
7 days
Route
Campeche airport → Calakmul → Campeche airport
Best for
Major Maya cities, remote forest roads, and slower pacing
Total driving
About 13 hours, over 7 days
Distance
Around 600 miles (965 km)
Roads
Mostly two-lane highways in decent shape, with rough access roads (Santa Rosa Xtampak, El Tabasqueño, El Hormiguero, notably).
Key sites
Calakmul (anchor)
Edzna (TBC)
Santa Rosa Xtampak (isolated, ceremonial)
Becan (TBC)
The route, day by day
Route logic
Although the itinerary covers a relatively small portion of southern Yucatan, movement through the region is slower and less linear than the map initially suggests. Distances are moderate, but transitions take time.
The route gradually moves from the more accessible eastern Maya lowlands around Bacalar into the Rio Bec region of Campeche, where architecture becomes more elaborate, theatrical, and increasingly isolated within the forest.
It finally culminates in Calakmul, whose monumental scale and deep biosphere setting give the itinerary its geographical and historical anchor.
Structure 8 in Becan, Campeche.
Choosing your bases
Bacalar (nights 1 & 2)
The most comfortable eastern base of the itinerary, combining easier logistics with access to the lagoon and nearby sites like Ichkabal.
Best for: slower starts, lagoon time, restaurants
Recommended stay: Amar Bacalar
Good restaurants: Mr Taco, Navieros.
Detailed recommendations in the Bacalar article.
Xpujil (nights 3&4)
The practical gateway to the Rio Bec region. Less visually stunning than Bacalar, but strategically positioned for early departures and shorter driving days.
Best for: easy access to the Rio Bec sites.
Recommended stay: Hotel Casa Las Lolas
Good restaurants: Sazon Veracruz, Antojitos Doña Evita.
Detailed recommendations in the Becan article.
Calakmul (nights 5&6)
The most immersive base of the itinerary, placing you deep inside the forest and significantly closer to the ruins than staying in Xpujil. Ideal for early access to Calakmul and a fuller experience of the biosphere itself.
Best for: Calakmul, wildlife, forest atmosphere, remoteness.
Recommended stay & restaurant: Hotel Mundo Maya Calakmul.
Detailed recommendations in the Calakmul article.
The itinerary
Day 1: arrival
Arrival at Chetumal airport (CTM). Getting there from abroad requires a connection through Mexico City (3 to 4 flights daily). Many car rental brands are available on the premises.
Note: If time allows: enjoy a leisurely afternoon near Bacalar’s lagoon before the itinerary moves inland toward the Maya forest cities.
Day 2: Ichkabal & Bacalar
Morning
- visit the Maya site of Ichkabal. (45 min travel, 1 hour on site)
→ a newly opened Maya city of monumental scale, Ichkabal offers a quieter introduction before the itinerary moves deeper into the forest.
Afternoon
– enjoy Bacalar and its beautiful 7-color lagoon
→ this pueblo magico provides a vivid counterpoint to the ruins, centered around the lagoon’s shifting blue hues and its historical fort.
Day 3: Dzibanche, Kinichna & Kohunlich
Morning
- visit the Maya sites of Dzibanche & Kinichna (1h15 travel, ~2 hours on site)
→ isolated ceremonial centers surrounded by dense forest, Dzibanche and Kinichna introduce the quieter atmosphere of southern Quintana Roo’s inland sites.
Afternoon
- visit the Maya site of Kohunlich (45 min travel from Dzibanche, ~1h on site)
→ known for its monumental masks and forest setting, Kohunlich offers a more sculptural counterpoint before continuing toward the Rio Bec area.
- drive to Xpujil (1h)
Note: there is very little tourist infrastructure along the way, so it is best to be ready with a packed lunch before leaving Bacalar. Snacks and cold drinks are available in the small village of Morocoy, before Dzibanche.
A building in Chicanna.
Day 4: major Rio Bec sites
Morning
- visit the Maya site of Becan (~15 min travel, ~1h30 on site)
→ one of the largest settlements in the region, Becan combines monumental architecture with defensive earthworks rarely seen elsewhere in the Maya world.
Afternoon
- visit the Maya site of Chicanna (~15 min travel, ~45 min on site)
→ smaller and more refined than nearby Becan, Chicanna is known for some of the most elaborate facade work in the Rio Bec region, reminiscent of Chenes architecture.
- visit the Maya site of Xpujil (~10 min travel, ~30 min on site)
→ a compact roadside site whose surviving towers showcase the typical Rio Bec building style
Note: this day is intentionally light as sites are relatively close to each other. It’s best to visit Becan early in the morning and Chicanna & Xpujil late in the afternoon to avoid the hottest parts of the day.
Day 5: El Hormiguero & Balamku
Morning
- visit the Maya site of El Hormiguero (~60 min travel one-way, ~45 min on site)
→ one of the most remote sites on the itinerary, El Hormiguero preserves some of the region’s most intricate Rio Bec facade decoration.
- have lunch in Xpujil (~60 min travel)
Afternoon
- visit the Maya site of Balamku (~45 min travel, ~30 min on site)
→ modest in scale but home to one of the best-preserved stucco friezes in the Maya world.
- continue toward the Calakmul reserve. (~1h15 travel)
Notes: the access road to El Hormiguero, past the small village of Eugenio Echeverria Castellot, is in a bad condition and requires slow driving. There is very little tourist infrastructure between Xpujil and Calakmul, so plan for lunch in Xpujil and dinner at the Mundo Maya hotel in Calakmul. It is strongly advised to plan your arrival to the Mundo Maya hotel before nightfall to avoid driving through the biosphere reserve at night.
Day 6: Calakmul
Morning
- drive to the Calakmul archeological site from the Mundo Maya hotel and visit the UNESCO-listed Maya city. (~30 min drive inside the reserve, ~3–4 hours on site)
→ one of the most important cities of the ancient Maya world, Calakmul combines monumental scale with an unusually deep forest setting. Beyond its historical importance, it is visually stunning through monumentality and remoteness.
Afternoon
- enjoy the Calakmul Biosphere reserve via a slow, scenic drive on the access road or on some of the marked paths into the forests and marvel at the wildlife.
Notes: getting a sense of the biosphere beyond the majestic ruins will help make the trip more complete, and gives you a second night deep in the jungle.
A restricted path in the Calakmul biosphere reserve
Day 7: drive back and departure
Morning
- drive back to Chetumal to fly back. Most flights leave from early to late afternoon, leaving you ample time to get back without rushing. Drive time: 3.5 hours (without stops)
Afternoon
– fly back home through Mexico City (MEX)
The stops along the route
Ichkabal
A newly opened Maya city of monumental scale, Ichkabal offers a quieter introduction before the itinerary moves deeper into the forest.
Bacalar
Centered on its seven-color lagoon and historic fort, Bacalar offers a calmer transition between the coast and the inland Maya cities.
key site
Dzibanche & Kinichna
Surrounded by low jungle, Dzibanche & Kinichna are defined by towers, open ceremonial spaces, and a stronger sense of stillness.
Kohunlich
More approachable in scale and layout, Kohunlich is best known for the large stucco masks of its Temple of the Masks.
key site
Becan
The largest and most monumental site of the Rio Bec region, Becan combines defensive architecture with some of the area’s most imposing pyramids.
Chicanna
Best known for its sculptural monster-mouth entrance, Chicanna combines refined Rio Bec decoration with elements more typical of Chenes architecture.
Xpujil
Best known for its dramatic multi-tower facade, Xpuhil is one of the clearest expressions of the Rio Bec architectural style.
El Hormiguero
Hidden deeper in the forest, El Hormiguero is distinguished by some of the most intricate and theatrical facade decoration in the Rio Bec region.
Balamku
A modest site in scale, but home to one of the most extraordinary surviving stucco friezes in the Maya region.
key site
Calakmul
One of the great capitals of the Maya world, Calakmul combines monumental architecture with one of the most remote settings in Mesoamerica.
Field notes
Download maps in advance
Cell coverage becomes unreliable south of Bacalar and around Calakmul.
Fuel up early
Gas stations become less frequent deeper into Campeche and the Calakmul region.
Start early
Most sites offer limited shade and become significantly hotter by midday.
Expect slower roads
Travel times are shaped more by road conditions and transitions than by raw distance.
Keep flexible timing
Some of the strongest moments of the route come from unplanned stops and slower exploration.
Don’t overpack the days
Adding “just one more site” beyond the itinerary often reduces the experience to short visits and continuous driving.
