Chicanná, Mexico.
A quiet detour into the brilliance of Maya architecture.
Looking for concrete details and tips? Go straight to the Practical Information section.
This article is part of a bigger trip through the seldom visited ancient Maya cities of the southern Yucatán peninsula. I visited the Becán, Chicanná, El Hormiguero and Xpujil sites in one day, before heading to Calakmul and then onwards to Bacalar.
I was sitting in my car, reveling in air-conditioning and wondering what would be my next step. I had just come out of the amazing Becán Maya site and needed to strategize the rest of my day. My goal was to visit four sites but I wasn’t sure if I was going to be able to, given the distance and the necessary visit time in each of them.
Traveling to Chicanná was an easy decision. The site is only a 5-minute drive from Becán, and although not a major site, it seemed like a wasted opportunity to be so close and fail to see it.
After the grandeur of Becán, Chicanná felt like a sleepy little village, and in many ways, it was. It is believed that the site was a dependence of Becán, and a place for the its elite to live. There were no cars on the parking lot, and work was being done to upgrade the facilities.
I started walking down a path lined with trees, thanking luck for the shade they provided as the day’s heat was getting close to uncomfortable.
A partial view of Building 1 in Chicanná.
Chicanná isn’t the place to be wowed by grandiose pyramids. Calakmul and nearby Becán, important political and economic centers in Maya times, can provide this. What makes Chicanná unique is, first and foremost, Building 2 (Estructura 2), the incredibly well-preserved temple that gave the settlement its modern name (Chicanná means “house of the serpent mouth”).
Perhaps inspired by watching snakes eating their preys whole, the Maya erected a temple whose entrance represented Itzamná, the God of the Sun and Wisdom, in the shape of a snake’s open mouth, and was thought to symbolize the passage from the earth to the underworld.
After the grandeur of Becán, Chicanná felt like a sleepy little village.
Standing in front of the temple, I was awed, not only by the intricacy of the design and its precision, but also by its seemingly unbelievable degree of preservation, unlike many of the other temples on this site or further afield. This was explained by Maya genius in the construction phase of the building: each detail of the façade, from the snake’s teeth to the surrounding plants details were carved on individual stones, which were then assembled as a puzzle to form the final design. Thanks to this, and although the temple stayed buried in the jungle for centuries, it was possible to rebuild its façade with original stones like it once was - bearing in mind, in Maya times, the snake must have been painted in red, given the small bits of color remaining on some of the stones.
Chincanná sits squarely in the Rio Bec region, of which Becán was the most important settlement and displays clear signs of the eponymous architecture. Typical of the Late Classic period in Maya times (600-900 CE), the Rio Bec style was influenced by the aesthetics of Tikal, one of the most important Maya cities in the Petén region to the south, which developed earlier, and is known for what is called façade architecture, for its grand designs that seem to have no other goal than to impress. The Rio Bec style differs from the Petén style by incorporating strong ornamental elements typical of the Chenes style, a region of modern Campeche to the north.
A closer look at the intricacy of the snake mouth on Building 2 in Chicanná.
The Rio Bec temples were often built as a long building with two ornamental towers at each end, which got narrower towards the top to create the illusion of height. Stairs leading to these towers were so steep they were unusable - they too were meant to be decorative. Finally, the temples at the top of the towers were not real places of worship. There were no rooms inside. They were just ornaments meant to look like temples.
Building 1 (Estructura 1) at Chicanná is the best example of Rio Bec style on the site. It consists in a single-story structure flanked by two towers meant to mimic a pyramid base with a temple on the top. Anchoring the central plaza, it felt like its centerpiece.
Beside the central plaza, Building 6 (Estructura VI), partially in ruins, still showcased beautiful and well-preserved wall panels depicting abstract snake motifs, another testament to the architecture genius of the Maya civilization.
It took me about thirty minutes to tour Chicanná, but it was well worth it. The site couldn’t be any more different than nearby Becán, and felt like a welcome change from the massive structures seen there.
Building 6 with its preserved wall panels in Chicanná.
What stayed with me
I am glad I decided to take a quick detour and check out Chicanná. What the site lacked in grandeur, it more than made up for it with the incredible Temple of the Serpent Mouth (Building 2), a vivid example of the extraordinary craftsmanship of the Maya from more than a thousand years ago. Beyond the pyramids, it helped me connect with their ancient culture in a new, unexpected way.
Practical information
(Everything you could possibly want to know about Chicanná - updated December 2025)
In a nutshell
Chicanná, a minor Maya site in the southeastern part of the state of Campeche, very close to Becán, is best visited alongside other sites, as part of an itinerary that must include Calakmul.
The site is rarely every crowded, even during high season (November-February). Entry cost is MXN 75 as of publishing date. No tour guides are available on premises unless prearranged.
Plan to spend 30 to 60 minutes on site.
At the time of my visit, the site was being spruced up but the new modern facilities weren’t ready - just know nearby Becán has them.
The turn off for Chicanná on highway 186 in Campeche.
Getting to Chicanná
How to get to Chicanná from the United States: Chicanná, also sometimes spelled Chicaná, in southeastern Campeche, isn’t easy to reach from the US. The closest airport is Chetumal (CTM), which has no direct flights to the US, making a connection in Mexico City (MEX) indispensable. Chicanná lies about two hours west of Chetumal airport, on Federal Highway 186, a well-maintained road with little traffic. Note Chicanná is 2 miles (3.3km) away from the Maya site of Becán, a mere 5-minute drive.
Another option could be to fly into Tulum (TQO), if planning a trip spanning more of the Yucatán peninsula, as US and Canadian airlines fly non-stop to the new Tulum airport, but travel time from TQO to Chicanná is over 4 hours.
Car rental is your best bet to visit the region, and the Chetumal airport has several local and international options, which were fairly priced at the time of my visit (provided you don’t fall for the pushy additional insurance coverage every single rental agent is incentivized to sell you). While bus company ADO and Suchaa, a colectivo service, stop in nearby Xpujil, this isn’t close to the ruins, and you’ll need a 10-mn taxi ride to get there. It can be done, but unless the taxi waits for you, it may be hard to get a ride back. Renting a car makes the most sense from a planning and cost perspective, especially as part of a broader trip to nearby sites.
How to get to Chicanná from Mexico City: while it is possible to take a bus from the TAPO terminal in the capital all the way to Xpujil, a few miles from the Chicanná ruins, it isn’t recommended. The trip lasts more than 18 hours, in a first class bus that’s comfortable enough for a 3 to 4-hour ride, but we’re talking about a trip that’s more than 4 times longer. The walk-up fare is MXN 1,822 (about USD100 at time of writing) which isn’t super competitive with flying.
The best way to reach Chicanná is indeed to fly into Chetumal airport (CTM), from Mexico City’s main airport (MEX) or its secondary airport (NLU). Aeromexico, VivaAerobus and Volaris operate once a day between MEX and CTM while Mexicana and Viva fly several days a week from NLU to CTM, with base prices starting around USD75 one way. Car rentals are widely available at Chetumal airport, from a variety of Mexican and international companies. Chicanná is about 2 hours west of the airport, along Federal Highway 186, a well-maintained, straight-through-the-jungle two-lane road.
When to go to Chicanná
The best months weather-wise to enjoy Chicanná are during the dry season, between November and April, with January and February the (relatively) coolest months. This is also peak season so the site may be a little crowded, but Chicanná isn’t the main attraction near Xpujil - that would be Becán - so you’re unlikely to see big crowds any time of the year.
I went to Chicanná in October, which is low season as the combination of possible afternoon showers and intense heat can turn off travelers. I loved it for the lack of crowds, and the slightly overcast weather which made the heat tolerable. There was another group of 3 people with a guide during my visit, which meant I felt pretty much alone the whole time.
While other bigger sites may be best visited early in the morning and late in the afternoon, the tree cover at Chicanná is enough to make it an any-hour-of-the-day endeavor.
The shaded path leading to the ruins in Chicanná.
How much is the entrance fee to Chicanná
At time of writing, the fee was MXN75 per person.
What are the opening times for Chicanná
The site is open every day from 8am to 5pm. Entry is allowed until 4.45pm.
How long does it take to visit Chicanná
You should plan for a visit to last between 30 minutes and one hour, depending on your walking style. The site is rather compact.
Can I get a guide to visit Chicanná
Given the size of the site, there are no guides available on-site. Planning a guided visit ahead of time or getting on an organized tour would be the only way to make this happen. There are signs giving basic context in front of key buildings to make the visit more enjoyable.
What else to do around Chicanná
Chicanná sits squarely in a Maya region called Rio Bec, where many other sites can be visited. My favorites were Becán, just five minutes from Chicanná by car, and El Hormiguero, an isolated site well worth the visit. Other sites include Xpujil and Channá. Note that Rio Bec (the actual Maya settlement that gave name to the epominous style) isn’t currently open to visitors, but it is possible to visit it unoficially (I didn’t do this).
Safety in Chicanná
The Yucatán peninsula is one of the safest areas in Mexico, and Campeche is one of the few Mexican states with no travel advisory: it is labeled a level 1 “Exercise Normal Precautions” state, just like anywhere in the US. As such, there is no need to worry any more than if you were taking a California to Vegas roadtrip.
The yet-unopened new visitor facilities at Chicanná.
Food & lodging near Chicanná
Chicanná is located a few minutes west of the town of Xpujil, which will most likely be your base: it has hotels, restaurants, gas stations and yes, three OXXOs, and at least one of which is open 24/7.
Hotels
I stayed at the highly-rated Hotel Casa Las Lolas, on the outskirts of town. The hotel is actually made up of about 10 self-contained casitas, well-appointed, with kitchenette, good Wi-Fi and self-parking. I would definitely stay there again. Prices around USD100 per night.
Locals recommended the Hotel Villa Calakmul as a more affordable option in town. It is fairly basic, but seemed clean and safe and was away from the main road so traffic noise isn’t an issue. Prices around USD50 per night.
Restaurants
My favorite for breakfast: Antojitos Doña Evita. On the edge of town on the way to Becán. Good food, great service. It’s basic but super clean and affordable. Totally recommended.
A good treat for dinner: Sazón Veracruz. A large menu and a choice of terrace or indoor seating at very reasonable prices, as well as excellent Google reviews make this a safe bet. I had the meat, mushroom and cheese tacos which were decent, and price to quantity ratio was incredible.
Keep in mind these travel tips
The Yucatán peninsula is one of the safest regions in Mexico, and its main roads are well maintained. This isn’t enough to forget the #1 driving advice in Mexico: do not drive at night. Driving at night, on poorly lit roads means you won’t see the motorcycles without lights, the potholes and the ubiquitous topes, these notoriously hard speed bumps that spring out of nowhere. You may encounter wildlife or, more prosaically street dogs crossing right in front of you. Plan your itinerary to be at your next destination before night fall. It’s important.
No matter what the season, there will be bugs in Yucatan. While you may only see the gigantic Tarántula Yucateca spider on the roads leading to Calakmul, you’ll find mosquitoes pretty much everywhere, and especially in the shaded forests surrounding the Mayan ruins. Be ready with repellent at any time of the day. It’s also a good idea to wear clothes that cover your limbs (pants, high socks, long sleeve t-shirts) while you’re in the jungle. Mosquito-borne diseases are fairly uncommon in the state of Campeche, but not unheard of.
SPF will be your best friend. The UV index may be low in the morning and evening, but during the day, it gets pretty high.
Do not forget to hydrate. While OXXOs aren’t as ubiquitous in this rural region than in other ones, you’ll find plenty of abarrotes, these tiny stores selling cold water and sodas along the way. Make sure you always have water handy and drink to make the heat more bearable.
Cell service is spotty at best in southeastern Campeche, with Telcel the only provider with decent service in some places. If you’re roaming, check that you can roam on Telcel, or investigate a Mexican eSIM that uses this network. If not, think about downloading maps for offline use, it may prove very useful.
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