An itinerary to discover the Maya sites of the Rio Bec region.
Catch a glimpse of Maya architectural gems around the valley of the Bec river, in Southern Campeche.
Looking for the detailed itinerary? Click here. For concrete details and tips? Go straight to the Practical Information section.
This article is part of a bigger trip through the seldom visited Maya archeological sites of the southern Yucatan peninsula. See all articles here.
The Yucatán peninsula is one of the Central American regions with the most incredible examples of Maya architecture. Beyond UNESCO World Heritage sites like Chichén Itzá, Uxmal and Calakmul lie many other archeological zones, many of them stunning, but away from the main tourist circuit. Rarely visited, they represent a fantastic opportunity to get a glimpse of the pre-Colombian Maya world without the crowds. Among the hundreds of ancient settlements in Yucatán, four overlooked sites are open to the public in southeastern Campeche. Located in a region called Rio Bec (for one of the most emblematic sites, unfortunately not open to the public), they all share a very specific building style that still today puzzle most archeologists.
What is the Rio Bec style?
Typical of the Late Classic period in Maya times (600-900 CE), the Rio Bec style was influenced by the aesthetics of Tikal, one of the most important Maya cities in the Petén region to the south, which developed earlier, and is known for what is called façade architecture, for its grand designs that seem to have no other goal than to impress. The Rio Bec style differs from the Petén style by incorporating strong ornamental elements typical of the Chenes style, a region of modern Campeche to the north.
The Rio Bec temples were often built as a long building with two ornamental towers at each end, which got narrower towards the top to create the illusion of height. Stairs leading to these towers were so steep they were unusable - they too were meant to be decorative. Finally, the temples at the top of the towers were not real places of worship. There were no rooms inside. They were just ornaments meant to look like temples.
Aside from the Rio Bec Maya settlement itself, the best example of this architecture in the region is the settlement of El Hormiguero, south of Xpujil. In Becán, the remains of Structure 8 (Edificio VIII) are the best example of Rio Bec architecture on the site, with Structure 1 (Edificio I) a close second.
Maya sites of the Rio Bec region ranked by enchantment level
#1: Becán: the most impressive site with grandeur and status
Structure 4 in Becán.
Becán, in modern Yucatec Maya, means “trench”. The term was coined by 20th-century archeologists working to excavate the site, as part of the area is surrounded by a moat for about 1.2 miles (2 km), with several entrances across it. This is the only example of a moat-protected site in the whole area.
What’s striking about Becán is the sheer size of the site and of some of its buildings, implying it must have been an important center of power during its heyday (600-900 CE). Becán was also partly influenced by the architectural style called Rio Bec.
My favorite place on the whole site was the plaza formed by Structures 1, 2, 3 and 4. Named the Great Southeastern Plaza by modern archeologists, it is an elevated platform supporting the four buildings surrounding it. I am not sure if it’s how close the buildings were to each other, the perfect square they formed or their sheer size, but this is where I was the most overwhelmed during my visit, especially from the top of Structure 2 (Edificio II), letting me enjoy a view of Structure 4 (Edificio IV), a probable residential building for the elite, in all its glory.
If there is one site to visit in the whole region, this is it, for its sheer size and the preservation of most of its monuments.
Full article on Becán here.
#2: El Hormiguero: a fantastic testament of Rio Bec architecture deep in the jungle
Records indicate the site of El Hormiguero (meaning “ant hill” in Spanish, for a water source nearby) was inhabited early on, from 350 AD, but most of the buildings on the site date from the Late Classic Maya period, from the 7th to the 9th century, which marked the peak of the Maya civilization in the region.
Structure II, in the South building cluster, is a fantastic example of Maya architecture of the period, mixing two somewhat-related styles, Rio Bec and Chenes. Even though it isn’t as well preserved as other structures in the region, it was hard not to be impressed by its overall presence. I was once again reminded of the extraordinary talent the Maya architects and sculptors must have possessed to create such incredible facades more than a thousand years ago.
Another notable building on the site is Structure V, a platform supporting another beautiful one-story Chenes-style construction, probably a temple.
While rather compact, El Hormiguero is rich in other partially excavated buildings, and it can take a few minutes to go from one of the three clusters on the map, South, Central and North groups.
Although it lacked the massive grandeur of Becán, El Hormiguero was my favorite site in the Bec River region, for its remote jungle setting and the historical testimony of its main building, blending Maya architectural styles with brio.
Full article on El Hormiguero here.
#3: Chicanná: a smaller site that impresses with intricate details rarely seen anywhere else
It is believed that Chicanná was a dependency of Becán, and a place for its elite to live. Unlike Becán, it isn’t the place to be wowed by grandiose pyramids. What makes Chicanná unique is, first and foremost, Building 2 (Estructura 2), the incredibly well-preserved temple that gave the settlement its modern name (Chicanná means “House of the Serpent Mouth”).
Perhaps inspired by watching snakes eating their prey whole, the Maya erected a temple whose entrance represented Itzamná, the God of the Sun and Wisdom, in the shape of a snake’s open mouth, which was thought to symbolize the passage from the earth to the underworld. I was awed, not only by the intricacy of the design and its precision, but also by its seemingly unbelievable degree of preservation. This was explained by Maya genius in the construction phase of the building: each detail of the façade, from the snake’s teeth to the surrounding plants detail were carved on individual stones, which were then assembled as a puzzle to form the final design. Although the temple stayed buried in the jungle for centuries, it was possible to rebuild its façade with original stones like it once was.
Building 1 (Estructura 1) at Chicanná is the best example of Rio Bec style on the site. It consists in a single-story structure flanked by two towers meant to mimic a pyramid base with a temple on the top. Anchoring the central plaza, it felt like its centerpiece.
Beside the central plaza, Building 6 (Estructura VI), partially in ruins, still showcased beautiful and well-preserved wall panels depicting abstract snake motifs, another testament to the architectural genius of the Maya civilization.
Chicanná may not be the most important site in the area, but given how close it is to Becán and how stunning the House of the Serpent Mouth is, I would recommend a little detour to check it out.
Full article on Chicanná here.
#4: Xpujil: distilled Rio Bec design very close to town
Built during the Classic period, it is believed Xpujil’s zenith was between 750 and 900 AD, like the rest of the region. From this time is left a fantastic testament to the Rio Bec building style. Rediscovered in the 1930s, the site was christened Xpujil for the Maya name of a variety of cattail plant found nearby - the settlement’s original name is unknown.
Building 1 (Estructura 1), the most impressive construction on the site, was built in a classical Rio Bec template, as a low temple adorned with three high towers whose purpose was only to impress. Although the building has lost some of its luster, it was fairly easy to see how grand the facade must have been like. Unlike El Hormiguero, whose main building sits really close to the nearby trees, the surroundings of Xpujil’s Building 1 have been cleared, which make it stand out even more.
Standing in front of Xpujil’s main structure was another experience in humility. To see Building 1, to imagine what it looked like a thousand years ago, painted in bright colors and embellished with stucco sculptures, was to acknowledge the incredible ingenuity and skills of the Maya architects and builders who erected such a beautiful temple.
Full article on Xpujil here.
Suggested itinerary for a day of exploration in the Rio Bec region
It is possible to visit the four Rio Bec sites listed here in a day - a fact I can attest to myself. A visit in the region can be part of various Yucatan itineraries: travelers going to Calakmul can stop en route and spend a day to visit Becán and the other sites on the list. Travelers based in or near Bacalar can make this Rio Bec exploration a day trip - understanding the distance may mean three sites will fit in a day, but perhaps not four. Tourists based in Tulum may add a day or two to head down to the Rio Bec region and experience something completely different from the busy Riviera Maya. Finally, adepts of slow travel may find the region enchanting enough to give it several days and visit the sites at a slower pace.
The itinerary below is meant for a day trip with a base in Xpujil, understanding the above circumstances may let travelers fine-tune their plans accordingly.
Itinerary - A Day of Exploring Maya sites of the Rio Bec region.
The details
Departure from Xpujil at 8am: drive west to Becán. The site is fairly close (5 miles or 8km) and the ride should last less than 10 minutes.
8.15 am: start visit of the Becán site (90 minutes).
10 am: drive a couple miles west on highway 186 to Chicanná, check out the famous and incredibly well-preserved entrance of the house of the serpent mouth (45 mn)
11 am: drive east to Xpujil then south on highway 269 until you see the sign for El Hormiguero on the right. Beware, the final stretch of the road to the site is very treacherous (see full article on El Hormiguero for details). Count one hour for the one-way trip.
12 pm: visit El Hormiguero (45 min).
1 pm: drive back to Xpujil (45 min), have lunch in the little town (60 min).
3 pm: visit Xpujil, the last site of the day, which is a few minutes from town (30 min).
3.30 pm: call it a day, and head back to your accommodation for a little R&R, remembering sunset varies from 5.30 pm in winter to 7 pm in summer, and it’s a very bad idea to be driving at night (lack of public lighting, crossing animals, etc).
Check individual articles for up-to-date information on how to get there, pricing and opening hours:
Article on Becán
Article on Chicanná
Article on El Hormiguero
Article on Xpujil
I can only visit three Maya sites in the Rio Bec region, what should they be?
Although El Hormiguero is my favorite site and I recommend everyone check it out, it is also the most remote. If time is an issue, it makes more sense to focus on Becán (a must) and Chicanná and Xpujil. Although the last two are not as historically or visually significant, they are close enough to Becán and to the town of Xpujil that they can be added to the itinerary without adding too much time (and certainly very little drive time).
I can only visit two Maya sites in the Rio Bec region, what should they be?
If I were to choose a narrower selection than above, I would focus on Becán (again, the one site not to miss in the area) and Chicanná over Xpujil. Chicanná, with its mix of Rio Bec and Chenes architecture, feels more complementary.
I can only visit one Maya site in the Rio Bec region, what should it be?
Becán is the one site not to miss in the area. It’s the biggest, and beyond its unique moat protection system, offers grand plazas, immense pyramids and well-preserved buildings that make it the obvious choice.
Practical information
(everything you need to know about the Rio Bec Maya sites - updated as of February 2026)
In a nutshell
Renowned for their specific architectural design, the Maya sites of the Rio Bec area represent a great opportunity to go beyond the very touristy Maya sites of northern Yucatan to connect with a different sub-region of the Maya civilization. Splendid and hardly visited, they will wow with their intricate designs, natural settings and overall sense of remoteness. They are absolutely worth a day or two in any Yucatan itinerary.
Getting to Xpujil, your gateway to the Rio Bec region
How to get to Xpujil from the United States: Xpujil, in southeastern Campeche, isn’t easy to reach from the US. The closest airport to Xpujil is Chetumal (CTM), which has no direct flights to the US, making a connection in Mexico City (MEX) indispensable. Xpujil lies about 1h45 west of Chetumal airport, on Federal Highway 186, a well-maintained road with little traffic. Xpujil, the main settlement in the Rio Bec region, will likely be the base for exploring the Maya sites nearby.
Another option could be to fly into Tulum (TQO), if planning a trip spanning more of the Yucatan peninsula, as US and Canadian airlines fly non-stop to the new Tulum airport, but travel time from TQO to Xpujil is close to 4 hours.
Car rental is your best bet to visit the region, and the Chetumal airport has several local and international options, which were fairly priced at the time of my visit. While ADO and Suchaa, a colectivo service, stop in the town of Xpujil and one could conceivably walk from the bus station to the ruins (a 10-minute endeavor), it would be a shame to be in the region and only see this archeological zone, when more impressive ones, like Becán, lie a few miles away. Renting a car makes the most sense from a planning and cost perspective if planning to visit more sites.
How to get to Xpujil from Mexico City: it is possible to take a bus from the TAPO terminal in the capital all the way to Xpujil, but it isn’t recommended. The Xpujil ruins are close by (10 minutes from the bus station by foot) but the whole trip lasts more than 18 hours, in a first-class bus that’s comfortable enough for a 3 to 4-hour ride, but we’re talking about a trip that’s more than 4 times longer. The walk-up fare is MXN 1,822 (about USD100 at time of writing) which isn’t super competitive with flying.
The best way to reach Xpujil is indeed to fly into Chetumal airport (CTM), from Mexico City’s main airport (MEX) or its secondary airport (NLU). Aeromexico, VivaAerobus and Volaris operate once a day between MEX and CTM while Mexicana and Viva fly several days a week from NLU to CTM, with base prices starting around USD75. Car rentals are widely available at Chetumal airport, from a variety of Mexican and international companies. Xpujil is about 1 h 45 west of the airport, along Federal Highway 186, a well-maintained, straight-through-the-jungle two-lane road.
When to go to the Rio Bec region
The best months weather-wise to enjoy the Rio Bec area are during the dry season, between December and April, with January and February the (relatively) coolest months. This is also peak season so the town may be a little crowded. The Maya sites, however, rarely ever see a big crowd, so you’ll have plenty of space no matter which one you pick.
I went to Xpujil in October, which is low season as the combination of possible afternoon showers and intense heat can turn off travelers. I loved the lack of crowds, and the slightly overcast weather which made the heat more tolerable. Yes it rained almost every day around 5pm for a few minutes to a few hours, but it was all pretty manageable.
Safety in the Rio Bec region
The Yucatan Peninsula is one of the safest areas in Mexico, and Campeche is one of the few Mexican states with no specific travel advisory: it is labeled a level 1 “Exercise Normal Precautions” state by the US Department of State, just like anywhere in the US. As such, there is no need to worry beyond taking normal precautions.
Food & lodging in Xpujil
Hotels
I stayed at the highly-rated Hotel Casa Las Lolas, on the outskirts of town. The hotel is actually made up of about 10 self-contained casitas, well-appointed, with kitchenette, good WiFi and self-parking. I would definitely stay there again. Prices around $100 a night.
Locals recommended the Hotel Villa Calakmul as a more affordable option in town. It is fairly basic, but seemed clean, safe and was away from the main road so traffic noise wasn’t an issue. Price around USD 50 a night.
Restaurants
My favorite for breakfast: Antojitos Doña Evita. Good food, great service. It’s basic but super clean and affordable. Totally recommended
A good treat for dinner: Sazón Veracruz. A large menu and a choice of terrace or indoor seating at a very reasonable price, as well as excellent Google reviews make this a safe bet. I had the meat, mushroom and cheese tacos which were decent, but price to quantity ratio was incredible.
Keep in mind these travel tips
The Yucatan peninsula is one of the safest regions in Mexico, and its main roads are well maintained. This isn’t enough to forget the #1 driving advice in Mexico: do not drive at night. Driving at night, on poorly lit roads means you won’t see the motorcycles without lights, the potholes and the ubiquitous topes, these notoriously hard speed bumps that spring out of nowhere. You may encounter wildlife or, more prosaically street dogs crossing right in front of you. Plan your itinerary to be at your next destination before nightfall. It’s important.
No matter what the season, there will be bugs in Yucatan. While you may only see the gigantic Tarántula yucateca spider on the roads leading to Calakmul, you’ll find mosquitoes pretty much everywhere, and especially in the shaded forests surrounding the Maya ruins. Be ready with repellent at any time of the day. It’s also a good idea to wear clothes that cover your limbs (pants, high socks, long sleeve T-shirts) while you’re in the jungle. Mosquito-borne diseases are fairly uncommon in the state of Campeche, but not unheard of.
SPF will be your best friend. The UV index may be low in the morning and evening, but during the day, it gets pretty high.
Do not forget to hydrate. While OXXOs aren’t as ubiquitous in this rural region than in other ones, you’ll find plenty of abarrotes, these tiny stores selling cold water and sodas along the way. Make sure you always have water handy and drink to make the heat more bearable.
Cell service is spotty at best in southeastern Campeche, with Telcel the only provider with decent service in some places. If you’re roaming, check that you can roam on Telcel, or investigate a Mexican eSIM that uses this network. If not, think about downloading maps for offline use, it may prove very useful.
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All photos are mine and copyrighted.