Cuernavaca, Mexico.
A view of the gardens surrounding the Cuernavaca cathedral, with Miguel Hidalgo street in the foreground.
Finding the rose(s) among the thorns in a colonial Mexican city that’s unfairly overlooked.
Looking for details and tips? Head straight to the Practical Information section.
Cuernavaca, the capital of the state of Morelos, has had a very rich history since before the Spanish conquest of Mexico in the 16th century. While it was coined the City of Eternal Spring by Alexander von Humboldt in 1810, Cuernavaca was cherished by the Aztec ruling class for its climate and the fertility of its soils for centuries before that.
A very accessible 90-minute bus ride from Mexico City, I decided to check it out one weekend during the late summer of 2025.
I have to confess Cuernavaca wasn’t on the top of my lists of cities to discover. Although it has always been famous for its climate, and been chosen by many Mexico City inhabitants as a place to escape to for the weekend, the city itself has fallen on somewhat hard times in the past few decades. Insecurity grew, and its historic center, once absolutely gorgeous, has now lost a lot of its luster.
It felt like a city that would be hard to love at first sight, unlike cute pueblos mágicos nearby like Tepoztlán or Malinalco. Yet, behind the neglect lies a city with incredible testaments to the history of New Spain that are worth checking out. Cuernavaca felt, to me, like a diamond in the rough, a place that would be off the top 10 lists of anyone trying to “do” Mexico in a week or two, and therefore a place to discover.
A colorful street in Cuernavaca's downtown
On a rainy Friday night (the 2025 rainy season had been very intense in Mexico City, one of the wettest of the past few decades), we took the subway to Terminal Taxqueña, the modern terminal in the south of the city that services many destinations along the highway 95D corridor, such as Taxco, Acapulco, Tepoztlán or indeed, Cuernavaca.
The Taxqueña bus station gets incredibly busy on Friday nights, as people taking the weekend off to enjoy Morelos join the daily commuters heading back to Cuernavaca - the city, although 90 minutes away from the southern parts of Mexico City, is home to a sizable population of people who commute to CDMX to work every day. When we got to the Pullman de Morelos counters, five of them were open, and the line was at least eight to ten people deep for each of them. It didn’t take long, however, for us to get to the front of the line. Most people buy a ticket on the next departing service to Cuerna, and are happy to get whatever seat is given by the computer, given the short route, so transactions go fast.
The next bus would leave in eight minutes, and by the time we got to the platform, got cleared by the nonchalant security guard, had our bags checked and sat in our seats, the bus was almost ready to depart.
It wasn’t my first time on a Pullman de Morelos bus - I had taken a similar service to get to Tepoztlán about a year and a half ago, and while I was still impressed by how much better first-class buses were in Mexico versus what an average US Greyhound coach would look like, I was now slightly blasé about the whole thing, having experienced luxury buses, a category vastly superior (see my article on bus travel in Mexico).
The Chapel of the Third Order of San Francisco, within the Cathedral compound.
A few ETN luxury buses serve Cuernavaca on a daily basis, but Pullman de Morelos offers services basically every twenty minutes (or less) at peak times, and nothing could beat that convenience.
It was night time by the time we pulled out of Taxqueña, and I missed seeing the beautiful mountainous scenery surrounding highway 95D, like I had on my trips to Taxco or to Acapulco. We got to Cuernavaca’s Centro bus terminal a little after 9pm. For a city of about one million people, that bus terminal seemed quite small. First, the terminal is exclusive to Pullmann, and second, most services actually terminate at the Casino bus station, further north, and closer to Cuerna’s wealthier neighborhoods.
Cuernavaca felt like a diamond in the rough.
The Centro bus terminal was convenient for us as it was located very close to the historical center and there to most of the town’s points of interests. We barely had to walk two blocks to our hotel - and a part of me was happy it was so short, because the downtown area can feel a little sketchy at night.
On our first day in the city, we hit most of the key sights. I had to get used to the grittiness of the streets around the hotel, which reminded me of other not super well-maintained Latin American cities’ downtowns, like Quito or Medellin, and I couldn’t help but think how gorgeous Cuerna’s could be with a little TLC.
Inside the Borda garden.
Our first stop was the cathedral compound, whose history is fascinating. Initially built as a Franciscan monastery in the 16th century, post Spanish conquista, the monastery of the Assumption of Mary used to serve as an instrument of evangelization of the local population. One key moral justification of the Spanish rule over New Spain was indeed a duty to preach the Christian gospel and convert indigenous people to Catholicism.
The cathedral was therefore part of that compound, behind tall, thick walls as the Spanish church felt they may need protection against rebellious locals. When the compound was originally built, it was much bigger, and included buildings that are today outside of it (one of them being the Robert Brady museum). Today, it only includes the cathedral and two chapels: one open chapel dedicated to St Joseph, where it is believed the evangelization process for the natives was happening, and the Chapel of the Third Order of San Francisco (Capilla de la Tercera Orden), a beautiful example of baroque architecture.
Inside the compound, which reminded me a little bit of the one in Malinalco, we were sheltered from the noise of the surrounding city, among trees and very few people. It was a lovely moment, that made me almost disregard how historically important the place used to be.
The cathedral of Cuernavaca is part of the Earliest 16th-Century Monasteries on the Slopes of Popocatepetl, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognizing the importance of the early Spanish efforts to evangelize the native population in what would become the states of Puebla, Tlaxcala and Morelos. I previously visited another one of these monasteries, in Tepoztlán.
Netzahualcoyotl street in downtown Cuernavaca.
Unlike the others, the Cuerna monastery has been significantly remodeled over the years, and as a result, the cathedral of today doesn’t look much like the original building (only the outer walls haven’t changed). It is still a beautiful, austere building that deserves a visit on any Cuernavaca tour - especially because it possesses another particularity that makes it different from most Mexican cathedrals: it isn’t built on the town’s main square. Cathedrals, as the main church in major cities, usually anchor the zócalo on one of its sides. This is obvious in most towns, but especially visible in Mexico City, Puebla or San Luis Potosí.
In Cuernavaca, the cathedral and its walled compound are located a few blocks away from what is, in any case, a peculiar main square, actually formed by two different plazas, the official zócalo, known as the Plaza de Armas, and a small, adjoining square, the Juarez garden. The two are interchangeably called zócalo (main square) by locals.
The Cortés palace made me feel quite small.
It would be odd to write about Cuernavaca without mentioning Hernán Cortés. Cortés, who led the Spanish army which went to defeat Tenotchitlán, the Aztecs’ most powerful city (now Mexico City) and then conquer what is Mexico today, was the most powerful conquistador in New Spain and left, among many things, a legacy of buildings in the territory.
In return for his success in conquering New Spain, Cortés was awarded the title of Marquess of the Valley of Oaxaca, a prestigious noble title that covered a region much larger than the current state of Oaxaca, that also included Morelos.
In front of the Cortés palace in Cuernavaca.
Cortés decided to establish his private residence in Cuernavaca, in the heart of his estate, and spent quite a bit of time there. That’s also where he built the Cortés Palace, now the Museum of the Peoples of Morelos, the oldest conserved civil structure in the continental Americas from the Viceroyalty period.
The Cortés palace sits on Cuernavaca’s zócalo, and its austere, Gothic-Mudéjar building style made me feel quite small - it was fortified to protect from the native population. I actually visited it on my second day in the city, early enough that I almost had the place to myself. One advantage of staying in the city versus visiting Cuerna on a day tour is that you can enjoy its main sights before the first tourist buses arrive.
Today, the palace houses the Museum of the Peoples of Morelos, and presents an interesting collection of pre-Columbian artifacts as well as interesting exhibit on the Morelos’ nature, showing the state’s endemic flora and fauna.
The highlight of the museumwas the magnificent mural painted by Diego Rivera in 1930, the History of Morelos, Conquest and Revolution. Covering three walls of an open hallway on the eastern side of the palace, the fresco is quite large (at more than 1,600 square feet), and presents a chronology of the conquest of present-day Mexico by the Spaniards with a focus on the Cuernavaca region, in several different tableaus. It’s a stunning piece of work, and one of the Rivera paintings that touched me the most. Given how narrow the hallway is, it’s hard to really look at the work in its entirety, but each portion is worth a look for itself. Do not miss this while you’re in Cuernavaca.
A part of the Diego Rivera mural in the Cortés palace in Cuernavaca.
The third highlight of our visit to Cuernavaca was the incredible Borda garden. José de la Borda made his fortune in mining in a town not too far from Cuernavaca: Taxco, in neighboring Guerrero. Given its immense wealth, Borda decided to have a summer estate built in Cuernavaca in the second half of the 18th century, and spared no expense. Borda was very much into horticulture and brought together an astonishing collection of plants, flowers and trees, surrounded by several pools and terrace, the construction of which represented a major feat of engineering for the time and is considered the first botanical garden in New Spain, and one of the best preserved example of a garden created during the Spanish rule over Mexico.
The garden (and the surrounding property) was so beautiful that it enticed Emperor Maximilian, who ruled Mexico between 1864 and 1867, to make it his own summer residence as well.
Today, the garden still feels like a place frozen in time, well preserved, and surprisingly quiet, though it is located in the middle of Cuernavaca’s center. It’s a great place to sit down, relax and enjoy nature, just as Jose de la Borda did a few centuries ago.
It would be wrong to limit Cuernavaca to its historical appeal however. Given its geographical location, the city is home to more than 100 ravines, that crisscross the city (and can make commute quite complicated). One of the most famous one is the Parque Estatal Urbano Barranca de Chapultepec, or Chapultepec Ravine State Park, in the heart of the city. At almost 30 acres, it is a lush oasis that is as far away as treat as one can imagine from the Borda garden.
The entrance to Chapultepec park in Cuernavaca.
Where the former was all formal and somewhat French-inspired, the latter lets nature cover the ground almost untamed. The park is beautifully maintained - don’t get me wrong - but there is a sense of wilderness that is very welcome, in the middle of such an urban jungle. It’s a refreshing walk on a different side of Cuernavaca.
We left Cuernavaca in the early afternoon on Sunday, to beat traffic back to the capital that is notoriously bad after 4pm. Our trip back on another Pullman de Morelos service was uneventful, and a mere 90 minutes later, we were back at Terminal Taxqueña, ready to take the subway back towards the center of Mexico City.
Practical information (updated as of October 2025)
In a nutshell
Best bus company to get to Cuernavaca: Pullman de Morelos, with frequent service from the Taxqueña bus terminal to terminal Centro, the closest to downtown Cuernavaca (1h30 to 2h ride, MXN 190 one way).
Cuernavaca’s weather is pleasant all year round, and slightly warmer than Mexico City. Plan for afternoon showers during the rainy season (May-September).
I recommend staying in the historic center to be close to the main attractions, knowing it can get a bit sketchy at night.
Key highlights of Cuernavaca (all within the downtown area):
the cathedral (a UNESCO World heritage site) and the old monastery compound that surrounds it
The Palace of Cortés, for its architecture, historical significance, and the stunning Diego Rivera mural on the second floor
The Borda garden, one of the first botanical gardens in New Spain, beautifully preserved
Outside Pullman de Morelos' terminal Centro, in downtown Cuernavaca.
Getting to Cuernavaca
How to get to Cuernavaca from the United States: being close to Mexico City, the best way to reach Cuernavaca is to fly into Mexico City’s main international airport, Benito Juarez or MEX. From there, Pullman de Morelos offers a frequent executive bus service called Ejecutivo Dorado to Cuernavaca’s Casino de la Selva terminal every 20 to 30 minutes depending on the time of day.
An executive service is a better than a standard bus, with more legroom and in this case, seats set up as four around a working table at the end of the bus - it’s perfect if you need to work on a laptop. Check out the difference between first class, executive and luxury buses here.
Buses depart from the terminal 1 bus station and call at terminal 2 before heading out to Cuernavaca. Trip should take around 2 hours, depending on traffic, and a one-way ticket costs MXN410 (USD 22 at time of publishing).
How to get to Cuernavaca from Mexico City:
Pullman de Morelos is the bus company of choice to Cuernavaca, with a very dense schedule that won’t have you wait more than a few minutes for the next bus to depart. Terminal Taxqueña, also known at Central del Sur, in the south of the city, is the main station from which services to Cuernavaca depart. It’s also the most convenient as its location, close enough to the entrance to toll highway 95D leading to Cuernavaca, avoids a lot of the Mexico City traffic you’d face should you leave from another bus terminal.
There are at least 3 Pullman buses an hour leaving from Taxqueña and terminating at Cuernavaca’s main terminal, Casino de la Selva. The bus leaving on the hour is an executive service (with more legroom and some seats with a working table) and the buses leaving at 20 and 40 of each hour are first class buses. At peak times, there are even more buses than this.
The first-class one way fare is MXN190 (USD10.50) and the executive fare is MXN200 (USD11), and it should take between 90 minutes and 2 hours to get to Cuernavaca.
Understand the difference between first class and executive services here.
Note that Pullman de Morelos calls their first class service “Pullman de Lujo” (Luxury Pullman) but this is misleading as these buses are not at the luxury service standard, but offer a solid first-class experience. Upon research, the “de lujo” designation only applies their newest buses, but the service and amenities are similar to the regular “Primera” services. Now you know.
Pullman de Morelos serves quite a few other terminals in the city, linking Taxqueña with the terminal Centro almost every 30 minutes, with first class buses, as well as second class buses called MiBus, cheaper but without basic amenities, and going through the free road, not the toll road, which takes longer and is less secure (in other words, I’d recommend avoiding MiBus).
You can also leave from Patio Santa Fe, Myiana, or the WTC Hotel, but Taxqueña is where most services start from.
Other bus lines serve Cuernavaca, and can be a good alternative to Pullman de Morelos, but they won’t offer as many services. On convenience alone, Pullman is a clear winner.
Futura offers frequent first-class service between Taxqueña and their own terminal in Cuernavaca, somewhat close to the historic center. Buses run about every 30 minutes, but most of them are listed as “de paso” on Futura’s website, which means they aren’t originating from Taxqueña and therefore may be delayed getting to the station.
Seats inside a Pullman de Morelos first-class bus we took Cuernavaca and Mexico City.
When to go to Cuernavaca
Cuernavaca is known as the City of Eternal Spring in Mexico, and it summarizes its climate pretty well. Being close to Mexico City, the climate patterns are fairly similar, with beautiful, sunny weather year round and a rainy season between May and September where short, intense afternoon showers are likely.
Cuernavaca sits at a slightly lower elevation than the capital, however, which means its temperatures are a little bit warmer, just enough to be extremely pleasant day in and day out.
Safety in Cuernavaca
The safety situation in Cuernavaca hasn’t always been the way it is now (that is, somewhat dangerous). Cuernavaca used to be a great weekend destination for Mexico City dwellers looking for more space in quiet easy neighborhoods.
Today, Morelos, where Cuernavaca is located, is labeled a Level 3 “Reconsider Travel” state by the US State Department. For reference, this isn’t as serious as warning as Level 4, widely used for countries at war (Ukraine, Libya) or Mexican states with a high level of cartel danger (Michoacán, Zacatecas). However, a level 3 warning isn’t something to shrug off either. It is on the same level as parts of Colombia, Pakistan or Madagascar, as well as Mexican states such as Baja California or Jalisco (where Guadalajara and Puerto Vallarta are located).
A level 3 advisory is significant, even if it may seem hyperbolic (a September 2025 Wall Street Journal article quotes Dan Richards, CEO of Global Rescue, a travel management company, as saying “[These warnings] are designed for the general public, not just seasoned travelers, which makes them often appear conservative”). That being said, being aware of the advisory and taking steps to mitigate the risks will go a long way in ensuring you can visit Cuernavaca safely.
Ask any local about Cuernavaca’s history of safety issues, and most will likely talk to you about about the death of Arturo Beltrán Leyva, then one of the most important Mexican cartel bosses, on December 16, 2009. On that night, the Mexican Navy cornered him and some of his men in an apartment in the Altitude building, a luxury condominium close to Cuernavaca’s center.
It was well-known that Beltrán Leyva had made the Morelos capital his base, and it can certainly explain some of the violence that plagued the city in the years prior.
The current US advisory dates back from 2023, however. Since the Beltràn Leyva death, not much has changed, and reports of corruption and political collusion with cartel groups are legion in the Mexican press. Cuauhtémoc Blanco, the former governor of Morelos, was accused of close ties with narcotraficantes in late 2022, when a photo showing him surrounded by presumed narco bosses surfaced.
Today, the city doesn’t look anything like a war zone, and certainly seems quiet at first sight (although it certainly doesn’t in the historic center at night). My general advice is always valid: checking the local news beforehand, knowing where you’re going, keeping your wits about you, not flashing expensive clothes or phones, not doing things you shouldn’t do, staying in touristy areas, avoiding walking solo at night, will maximize your chances of enjoying a care-free Cuernavaca stay.
If you’re interested in visiting Cuernavaca but fear getting into the city on your own, know many day trips are available from Mexico City, and a quick search on Viator or similar sites will yield many results. I am not a big fan of group visits, but I understand how it can be seen as a safety precaution.
The ticket counters inside Pullman de Morelos' terminal Centro in Cuernavaca.
Food & lodging in Cuernavaca
I stayed two nights in Cuernavaca and given the size of the city, this means I wasn’t able to check out most of the culinary offerings - it is a lot easier in pueblos like Real de Asientos where restaurants are few and far between.
I did enjoy my meal at Casa Hidalgo, a somewhat touristy restaurant with a gorgeous view of the Cortés palace (especially from the second floor balconies), but I felt like Cuernavaca deserves another trip so I can discover more restaurants.
A quick mention for Raspalia, a cute shop within the Chapultepec Ravine State Park, offering delicious ice-based refreshments, with shaded seating. It’s a great place to relax and enjoy the park. Note the Google Maps link shows the store as outisde of the park,but trust me, it is inside, along themain path so you cant miss it.
We stayed at the Mesón de las Delicias hotel, downtown. It happened to be close to the main historical attractions, as well as a block and a half away from the Centro bus station, with frequent service to and from the Taxqueña bus terminal in Mexico City. Do yourself a favor however, and ask for a room away from Galeana street, which can get noisy (any room listed as featuring a garden view will do). These rooms should cost around $120 per night (perhaps a bit more on weekends) and come with free breakfast.
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