Puebla, Mexico.

Often overlooked, this underrated colonial city deserves your attention.

We have all been there. You want to visit a country, already have your key stops highlighted in the guidebook and a plan to hit them all up. And then someone suggests a place you have never heard of, or a place you looked at and decided to leave aside for a hypothetical next time. “But this place is incredible, it’s a must-see!” that someone argues. Yet for some reason, it doesn’t really register. Maybe you don’t want to change your trip plans, or don’t want to give up anything else to visit that must-see place. Perhaps it doesn’t even appeal to you, no matter how much that place is praised (“Unesco Heritage site!”, “unbelievably beautiful”, “best city I have ever been to!”).

Puebla, the capital of the state of the same name in Mexico, was one of these for me. No matter how many friends or family would rave about it, no matter how many Instagram reels I would watch, the appeal of the city never really got to me, and whenever I would plan trips, I would always find a seemingly better destination to explore.

The perception, for many, is that Puebla is just a mini version of Mexico City, and it’s close enough that going there wouldn’t feel like adding anything truly meaningful to a trip. Guanajuato is a great example of Spanish colonial architecture that feels very different, for instance (the full list Mexican destinations I visited off the beaten path is here).

After postponing the trip for too long, I decided to slide Puebla into my travel agenda. I had a couple of free weeks in October and had just been to Morelia and Zipolite, so a shorter trip would fit perfectly in my calendar. In addition, I want to visit all the Mexican states and I had never been to the state of Puebla, so even if I were to be disappointed by the city, the trip wouldn’t be a complete waste.

It’s funny how perception works, because I couldn’t have been more surprised by the beauty and charm of the Mexican city of angels.

That’s without taking into account the historical and cultural facets of the city’s history, that make it a must-go. If like me, you’re sitting on the fence, take the plunge. The city is within very easy reach of Mexico City (about 2h on a comfortable bus, from the city or MEX airport) and also counts with an international airport (all practical details on how to get there are listed at the end of this piece) making traveling from the US a breeze.

Puebla is much more than gorgeous colonial buildings.

Before getting into Puebla’s beauty, let’s step back and consider that a few centuries ago, during the Spanish colonial period, it was one of the most important cities in New Spain. Puebla was founded in 1531 by the Spanish in a valley that links Mexico City to what was then New Spain’s main port and a key place to trade with Europe, Veracruz. Being situated roughly at the center of the most strategic region of the Spanish colony, Puebla would only thrive from there.

As a result, the city is a treasure of colonial architecture in the New World, and its historic downtown was awarded the UNESCO World Heritage label in 1987.

However, Puebla is much more than gorgeous colonial buildings. The city is famous for the May 5, 1862 battle that marked a significant defeat for French troops, which had invaded Mexico to restore a European-inspired monarchy. The French eventually succeeded in conquering Mexico City (at least for a little bit), but that heroic battle, led by General Zaragoza, left a strong imprint in Mexican history, and is the reason why Mexicans celebrate Cinco de Mayo every year.

Puebla was renamed Puebla de Zaragoza in honor of the general who led his Mexican troops to victory on that day (although few people use its official name in casual conversation).

Puebla is also considered one of the culinary centers of Mexico, and is very famous for two dishes, the mole poblano (a hearty chocolate-based sauce that is usually served over chicken thighs) and the chile en nogada (a big poblano chile filled with a delicious mixture of meat and herbs, topped with a walnut-based sauce - note “poblano” is an adjective meaning “from Puebla” in Spanish). I had to try both dishes of course, and, although highly calorific, they were absolutely delicious. I know it sounds like a very touristy thing to do, but indulge in these two delicacies while in Puebla!

Finally, Puebla is also renowned for its pottery tradition. Talavera pottery is a traditional type of tin-glazed earthenware originally made in Talavera de la Reina, Spain, which was imported to New Spain early on. The abundance of high-quality clay around Puebla made colonizers eager to spread the Talavera technique in the region, and the trade took off. Talavera Poblana, the name for the Puebla-based pottery, is actually protected in Mexico with an official certification, and only official Talavera workshops are able to use the name.

Now, let’s go back to the beginning. After taking a surprisingly uncrowded subway to the TAPO (Terminal de Autobuses de Pasajeros del Oriente) bus station in Mexico City, I boarded a modern ADO bus. While I haven’t been shy about my love for luxury ETN buses, which I took to Morelia, Bernal, Tequisquiapan or Guanajuato, the line doesn’t serve Puebla from CDMX. ADO is actually the main premium option.

ADO’s main service (using the iconic red buses) is referred to as first-class service, and in Mexico, that means a clean, modern bus with ample legroom, reclining seats, air-conditioning and bathrooms. My round-trip ticket to Puebla cost just above USD20. It is possible to take a second-class bus (Autobuses Unidos, or AU is the main one, and an actual subsidiary of ADO) but the price difference isn’t that much, and these buses usually lack A/C, toilets and aren’t as comfortable. I wouldn’t recommend it.

I enjoyed the many houses with Talavera tiles facades

I wish I was able to tell you how beautiful the route was but I slept all the way, and only woke up when the bus rode over a few rough topes before getting to the CAPU (Central de Autobuses de Puebla). Remember these names, it’s frequent to see ads touting low round-trip prices for TAPO-CAPU itineraries. The Central is on the edge of the town’s center, and while I could have taken a local bus to my hotel, I decided to take an Uber, which are cheap throughout Mexico.

I had picked a hotel just outside of the historic center, in a street that seemed quiet, and close to a gym. In just a couple of minutes, I was walking among colonial buildings.

What surprised me the most about Puebla was how colorful the city was, and how different mixes of building styles would seem to perfectly mesh together. I was expecting a somewhat grey downtown, like Mexico City, where buildings use grey volcanic stone that give the city a somewhat gloomy feel. However, most of Puebla’s building were painted in bright colors, in a way that was more reminiscent of Guanajuato or San Miguel de Allende. Under the bright October sun, the city felt gorgeous and full of energy.

While the colorful houses were a highlight, the one aspect of Puebla that I enjoyed the most were the many houses with Talavera tiles facades. While not unique to Puebla (see the famous Casa de los Azulejos in downtown Mexico City), the style originated in the city, thanks to its Talavera tiles workshops, and the sheer number of buildings showing the use of this technique in Puebla makes this a true characteristic of the city. It reminded me a little bit of Lisbon, without the hills.

After a few minutes of walking in awe, looking up to every colorful house in each block, I arrived at the zócalo, Puebla’s central square. In many Mexican villages or small towns, the main square, sometimes but not always called zócalo too, is a political and cultural center, with a church and administrative buildings. It’s also almost always busy with people, sipping a drink in the many coffee shops and restaurants lining up the sides of the squares, and a great rendezvous point for people.

In some Mexican cities, however, the size of the main square is such that it feels less like a meeting point than a transit space, where it doesn’t really feel good to stop – Mexico City, Guadalajara or even Tequisquiapan are good examples of this. A central square that’s too big can feel overwhelming and intimidating.

Puebla’s zócalo is pretty big by Mexican standards, and yet it feels cosy. Its central fountain is surrounded by trees that provide cover from the sun but also make the square feel like a park. The lack of car traffic makes it surprisingly quiet. I was surprised to want to sit down and enjoy it for a bit, like I would in a much smaller city (for instance, Bernal).

Lining up the southern side of the main square is Puebla’s magnificent cathedral. It took almost 100 years to build it, on top of a previous, much smaller church, and as a result, it’s a mix of late-Renaissance and Baroque styles (it is specifically referred as a great example of Herrerian style, a type of architecture in vogue in Spain in the late 16th century that’s known for its austerity). Given its sheer size (its towers are the tallest of any church in Mexico) and its sober exterior, it’s a huge contrast with the colorful streets surrounding it, and makes the stern-looking building even more impressive.

Puebla is an underappreciated gem of a colonial city.

Many buildings in Puebla are photo-worthy, but one short street takes the cake: el Callejon de los Sapos. If walking by Toads street doesn’t sound appealing, know the street got its name in colonial times because the waters from nearby San Francisco river would regularly overflow into it, bringing big frogs with them. Today, toads are nowhere to be seen but the street, now almost fully pedestrian, is lined up with very picturesque colonial homes housing arts and crafts or antiques shops. It’s absolutely worth a stroll and a few pictures.

What else to see in Puebla? The whole historical center is worth your while, and you could spend a day or two walking in its colorful streets to check out houses, palaces and churches. Just get lost in the orderly blocks (Puebla, like most Spanish colonial cities except Guanajuato, was built on a grid) and enjoy the sights.

While you do so, let me highlight a few points I consider unmissable, beyond what I discussed above:

-       Capilla del Rosario (Rosary Chapel) in the Templo de Santo Domingo. Just a few block north of the zócalo sits this incredibly ornate chapel. Enter the church, walk all the way down to the altar and make a left to get to the chapel itself, and prepare to be amazed by the sheer amount of workmanship you’re going to look at. The whole chapel is basically painted with gold foil, and, lit from the top and the sides, is bathed in a magical light that is sure to move you.

-       Calle de los Dulces (Sweets street) is the nickname of the Avenida 6 Oriente for a few blocks near the zócalo. Lined with sweets merchants, the street is a delight for the sense but most likely a nightmare for your dentist. My recommended sweets shop can be found in the practical information section below.

-       Mercado de Artesanias El Parián (Parian crafts market): a compact but well stocked crafts market on the outskirts of the historic center, close to the Callejon de los Sapos. Spend all the hard-earned dollars you wish there, but do not buy any Talavera china. The only way to make sure you’re getting the real deal is by going to an official Talavera workshop (recommendations below).

-       Museo Internacional del Barroco (International Baroque Museum). I am a little torn on this one. While the building housing the museum is an actual architectural beauty, I wasn’t wowed by the exhibitions, whether permanent or temporary. The main rooms, explaining the history of the baroque style, felt a little all over the place. The entry fee is low so if you have time, go and check it out, but don’t expect a National Gallery kind of experience.

I hope this article made those of you who were on the fence about visiting Puebla decide to go. It really is an underappreciated gem of a colonial Mexican city that deserves more love (but selfishly, I am happy it still sits on the road less traveled).

I spent four days in Puebla, one of which I used to visit neighboring pueblo mágico Cholula, which was absolutely worth it.

Practical information

Getting to Puebla

-       From the US: at time of writing, Puebla’s airport (IATA code PBC) is served non-stop from Houston by United Airlines.  Most people headed to Puebla fly into Mexico City airport (MEX) where direct buses to Puebla’s CAPU are available. ADO is usually the most convenient first-class option. Note that you can’t search specifically for buses leaving the airport. On ADO’s website, search from bus leaving “Ciudad de Mexico” and find the services leaving from Terminal 2 (Aeromexico, Delta, Latam) or Terminal 1 (all other airlines) within the search results. The trip takes between 2h and 2h30.

-       From CDMX: head to TAPO, the city’s eastern bus station, and take one of the many buses to Puebla’s CAPU (Central de Autobuses de Puebla). Two companies offer the lion share of first-class services: ADO and Estrella Roja. Either are fine but ADO has usually more departure choices. I wouldn’t recommend second-class buses, which are less comfortable and lack basic amenities like A/C or restrooms. Beware, when searching on the ADO website, both first class (ADO) and second class (AU) services can be shown to you in results, so make sure you pick an ADO service. Same thing on the Estrella Roja website, make sure to pick a “primera clase” service in the search results. Buses take between 2h and 2h30 to reach Puebla.

-       It is feasible to drive from Mexico City, the road is well maintained and safe (it is a toll-road). However, I recommend the bus, for cost and convenience.

Safety

-       Puebla and its state are given a “Exercise Increased Caution” by the US Department of State. This is lawyer speak to say that the area is overall safe, as long as you keep your wits about you like you would in any other big city. For perspective, the same warning is in effect for London or Berlin.

Restaurants, bakeries and coffeeshops

-       Coco y el Alacrán – a small downtown café with loads of healthy breakfast options, this was my go-to for the majority of my stay in Puebla. It has indoor and outdoor seating, and prices are very reasonable.

-       Clementina Cocina Poblana – this place was recommended to me for their delicious mole, and it didn’t disappoint. The setting and service are pretty basic, but the food is delicious, and the bill won’t break the bank.

-       La Zanahoria – a spacious, traditional restaurant in the historical center that specializes in vegetarian and vegan cuisine. Try their vegetarian chile en nogada, I promise it’s worth it. They offer a different fixed menu every day (only from 1pm, though) that’s both filling and delicious (and super local). A great address for incredible value-for-money meals.

-       Panificadora La Flor de Puebla. A panificadora is a traditional, old-style bakery offering typical Mexican pastries, where you pick your own delicacies with tray and tongs. Don’t be put off by the seemingly basic presentation, all pastries are fresh and delicious. This panificadora is viewed as one of the best in Puebla, and I understand why.

-       Gran Camotería la Clarita. One of the many sweets shop on Calle de los Dulces, this one is authentic and deliciously old-fashioned. A great place to buy sugary souvenirs.

Shopping

-       Uriarte Talavera – one of the most upscale certified Talavera maker, Uriarte has a store in Puebla’s downtown core (as well as another one in posh Polanco, in Mexico City). If price isn’t an issue, you can find beautiful, traditional Talavera pottery to bring back.

-       Fabrica de Talavera Armando – my favorite Talavera workshop. While not one of the oldest talleres, Armando offers both traditional and more contemporary Talavera styles, making this shop a great option for people looking for certified Talavera pottery with a touch of modernity.

-       Manos de la Tierra jewelry – the brand owns two stores on the Callejon de los Sapos, one at each end, but my favorite is the one at the southern end since it also hosts the actual workshop where jewelry is made. They specialize in silver jewelry with gemstones, most of them sourced in Mexico. The designs are unique and handcrafted and the price to quality ratio extremely good. I actually bought a silver necklace from them.

Images from top to bottom

headline image: callejon de los Sapos

polaroids: a colorful colonial house in downtown Puebla, another colorful house near the callejon de los Sapos, a house with a Talavera tiles facade, Talavera tiles details on a church, inside the Capilla del Rosario, outside the Museo Internacional del Barroco at night, waiting for an ADO bus back to Mexico City at Puebla’s CAPU station, inside the Panificadora La Flor de Puebla.

All images are mine.