Morelia, Mexico.
Don’t let the travel warnings prevent you from visiting this beautiful colonial town.
I hesitated before going to Morelia. Traveling on the roads less traveled means being open to cities that aren’t on everyone else’s radar, cities that lack the right tourist infrastructure, or cities that most people don’t feel comfortable visiting, however wonderful they may be.
Morelia, Michoacán, was definitely part of the latter category. Google “Michoacán travel” and you’ll be inundated with ominous travel warnings telling you it’s not a good idea to even think about going there. Drugs. Cartels. Shootings.
Given Mexico’s mixed imagery among the traveling public – the azure waters of endless beaches on one side, the abject violence of cartel killings on the other - most people are aware that not all of Mexico is considered safe to travel but the vast majority of its territory is perfectly fine and yet, on travel forums, it’s not rare to find your average traveler asking panicked questions along the lines of “can I walk in Mexico City’s Roma neighborhood without getting sliced in two by a crazy machete-carrying drug lord”. I am exaggerating just a little bit, but if otherwise-reasonable people wonder if it is safe to walk in one of the safest colonias of one of the safest towns in the Mexican Republic, where the US Department of State recommends to “exercise normal caution”, the same advice they give to people visiting Paris or Madrid, imagine what Joe Traveler would ask about Michoacán, on which is slapped a very stern “Do Not Travel” notice by the same Department of State.
This isn’t to say Michoacán isn’t dangerous. In 2023, according to INEGI data, it had the fifth highest level of murders among Mexican states (with 1865 homicides recorded), and although it doesn’t appear in the top 10 list of states by murder rate, it still features high enough on the list that people could rightly ask whether it’s safe to go there.
The inherent truth of statistics can hide something fundamental, however: most of the violence, like anywhere in the world, isn’t spread equally. Most of the murders recorded in Michoacán are linked to cartel activity, whether it is drug-related or linked to the control of the avocado-growing fields (a major agricultural activity in the state), and therefore away from the capital.
If one goes a little deeper, beyond the blunt “Do Not Travel” label, the advice is a little more nuanced, at least at time of writing (October 2024). “Morelia: U.S. government employees may travel by air and by land using Federal Highways 43 or 48D from Federal Highway 15D.” In other words, while Michoacán overall isn’t safe by the US Department of State standards, Morelia is fine, and access to Morelia as well, as long as one follows the routes described below.
The city hasn’t seen a huge influx of foreign tourists, it’s a perfect time to check it out.
The roads the Department of State recognizes as safe happen to be the main highway linking Mexico City to Morelia, as well as the main road between the town and its international airport. With that reassurance and that of Mexican friends who grew up in the city, I felt comfortable to venture out to Morelia for a few days.
I had gone to another Do Not Travel state in 2023, Guerrero, and wrote about my long weekend in Troncones. It is hard to compare a quaint little surf town with a city of almost one million people, so I promised myself I’d be more careful than usual.
I am not going to deny I was attracted to Morelia partly because it was deemed dangerous to go to Michoacán. The travel warnings have kept tourism at bay, and therefore I felt this would be a more interesting trip for me as well as for readers of this blog.
The main attraction in Morelia, however, is its extraordinary historic downtown, a UNESCO world heritage site since 1991 (allow me to highlight that Mexico is the #1 country in the Americas in terms of UNESCO World Heritage sites, with 35 of them, ahead of the United States and Brazil). Morelia is a great example of Spanish colonial urban planning that has stayed pretty much intact several centuries after it was conceived.
What makes Morelia even more interesting from a Spanish colonial town perspective, at least for me, is the incredible color unity displayed throughout the historical center, given by the pink Cantera stone used to erect most of its buildings. It feels austere yet beautiful, which is very different from what you may encounter walking in the centro histórico in Oaxaca or Guanajuato, where building after building is painted in bright contrasting hues.
Ask any Mexican, and they will give you yet another reason the city is culturally important. It was one of the early bastions of the Mexican fight for independence in the 19th century, and Jose María Morelos, a key leader of the movement, was born in the city, which now bears his name (the city was founded as Valladolid in 1545, before being rechristened as Morelia in 1828).
I had picked a reasonably priced hotel, in the town’s center, both to make sure I was close to the action and, being slightly careful safety-wise, to stay in a rather busy street where I would never walk alone (these precautions ended up being completely superfluous, but I didn’t know it at the time of booking).
Morelia is famous for its film festival, which occurs in October, and for its celebrations of the Day of the Dead in November but being a sensible traveler who enjoys being away from crowds, I chose to travel to Morelia in late September. Weather is usually beautiful at this time of year, however, the remnants of two hurricanes (one from the Pacific, the other from the Atlantic) were hovering over Mexico at the time of my trip, and as a result, I had to contend with rain and cloudy skies for four days.
Morelia can be a little hard to appreciate at first.
My trip started at the Northern Bus station in Mexico City, a modern, airport-like terminal where hundreds of buses leave each day for destinations as varied as Zacatecas or Guanajuato. I have said this before, bus service in Mexico is miles ahead of whatever standard most Western travelers are used to. The country doesn’t have a lot of train tracks, and most of the intercity services are operated via long-distance buses (air service has grown tremendously in the past few years with low-cost airlines significantly bringing down the cost of flying, yet bus travel is still much cheaper).
My favorite bus company in Mexico is called ETN, or Enlaces Terrestres Nacionales. They brand themselves as a luxury bus line, and they are way above anything called Greyhound. Most buses are new double-deckers with only three seats per row that almost fully recline. It’s as if you were flying first class on a legacy American airline. Coaches are clean, quiet and comfortable. They’re a great way to travel.
My ETN bus would leave Mexico City’s Estación del Norte at noon, and arrive in Morelia four hours later.
Once past the crazy commuting traffic around Mexico’s capital, the ride on toll highway 15D was pleasant. Going through highlands, the landscape was open, with mountains in the distance and (lucky me) rays of sunshine throughout.
Military presence was noticeable throughout the trip – this is probably why this route is deemed as safe by the Department of State. In any case, we got to Morelia’s bus station almost on time, and I quickly took an Uber to get to the town’s center, a mere twenty minutes away.
My first impression of the town was, well, rainy. I didn’t have a lot of daylight to start exploring, and I was starving so I first got a torta sandwich at a corner shop by my hotel. I waited for the rain to stop before venturing to the main square, or zócalo, with a perfect view of the cathedral. The reflection of the rain on the pavement was actually beautiful.
When I woke up for my first full day in Morelia, the sky was overcast but the streets were dry. I walked back to the zócalo to have a hearty breakfast at Lu, the Casino Hotel’s restaurant, which didn’t disappoint, both in terms of location and cuisine, then started exploring the town on foot.
It’s easy to tell Morelia was meant to be an important town in the vice-royalty of New Spain. The rivalry with Patzcuaro, in its early days as Valladolid, may explain why. Its avenues are large and its building imposing – one suddenly feels very small. What’s even more impressive is the degree of conservation of most buildings – they are in remarkable condition, which is even more notable since most of them were built with exposed Cantera stone. You can’t cheat your way into conservation with a fresh coat of bright paint. No, these buildings have been carefully maintained or restored, and it makes a walk in Morelia’s core feel like you’ve stepped back in time (if you can ignore the shops, banks and their signs dotting the streets).
What struck me most, however, was the incredible cohesiveness of the urban planning. I had read a few articles about the city before going on the trip, and in many described the city as “blah” or lacking the charm of more colorful cities like San Miguel de Allende.
It’s hard to pretend Morelia is colorful. The whole city was built off grey volcanic stone with pinkish hues. The dark hues of volcanic stone can make buildings look dirty or just eerily scary. There is a little bit of this in Morelia, although the stones are overall lighter than the ones used in Mexico City, and the pink hue gives it a nice little welcoming lift.
This is probably why Morelia can be a little hard to appreciate at first. The homogeneity of its buildings and the grey color of its stones can make the city feel austere, cold or even unwelcoming.
After walking a few blocks, I realized that, for all the criticism one can lay on the buildings’ aspect, the sense of harmony coming from such homogeneous building codes got me. It reminded me, all things considered of course, of Haussmann’s Paris. The city’s uniformity created a sense of place and identity that was hard to match. It made Morelia unique. I haven’t seen another city like it in my travels.
Four buildings were the highlight of my visit:
- The cathedral: a beautiful example of Spanish baroque architecture, Morelia’s cathedral is the only one in Mexico that was built facing north, not south. Rebuilt from 1660 to make it bigger as Morelia (then Valladolid) was growing, the building was finished in 1744. It’s stunning inside and outside, and absolutely worth a visit.
- The Clavijero cultural center: for more than a century, this minimalist palace built in pink stone was home to the Jesuit school of St Francis Xavier. Named after Francisco Clavijero, an 18th century Jesuit teacher and historian, it now houses a cultural center with many exhibits. Its austere interior offers a welcome respite from the business of the surrounding streets.
What struck me most, however, was the incredible cohesiveness of the urban planning.
- The Palace of Government: another magnificent example of baroque architecture in New Spain, the palace still is the seat of Michoacán’s administration, but can be visited. Enjoy its patios and the beautiful murals throughout the building.
- Public Library of the Michoacán University. A stone’s throw from the zócalo and the Clavijero cultural center, the library is located in what was then a convent. Its architecture, its wood paneling and the incredible number of antique books on display makes you feel like you may have stepped into a Harry Potter movie. Not a long visit but absolutely worth a look.
Note: I didn’t visit the Morelos historical museum, for lack of time. I recommend history buffs check it out. Do not confuse it with Morelos’ birthplace museum, a couple of blocks away.
During my trip, I was able to sample Morelia’s cuisine, and the highlight for me was gazpacho. No, I am not talking about a Michoacán take on the famous Spanish chilled tomato soup. Gazpacho, in Morelia, is something completely different, but absolutely worth a taste. It’s basically a fresh fruit salad, made with pineapple, mango and jicama, over which is spread cotija cheese, orange juice and various spices. The mix didn’t feel very appetizing… until I tried one. The flavors mix surprisingly well, offering a different take on a classic fruit salad that I came back to several times during my trip (recommended addresses below).
Morelia is absolutely worth a visit, and can be enjoyed in two or three days (more if you’re traveling at a leisurely pace, of course). Because of the situation in other parts of the state, the city hasn’t seen a huge influx of foreign tourists, and keeps its Mexican authenticity. It’s a perfect time to check it out.
Practical information
Getting to Morelia
- From the US: at time of writing, Morelia’s airport (IATA code MLM) is served non-stop from Los Angeles, Houston and Chicago. Connections from other cities are available through Houston, with United Airlines. Another solution is to fly into Mexico City airport (MEX) and take an Uber or public transit towards Mexico City’s Northern Bus Station (Estación del Norte), from where you can take a bus (see below). While there is a bus station at the airport, buses do not leave there for Morelia.
- From CDMX: although you can fly, the easiest way to reach Morelia is to take a bus. Most buses leave from Estación del Norte, although you can catch buses from the Terminal Poniente as well. My favorite company, ETN, is a luxury bus line with new buses, ample reclining seats that recall first class seats on US airlines (and like an airline, you can pick your seat upon booking), and only 3 seats per row. Round trip ticket was around USD 80. First class buses (way above Greyhound, but a little less luxurious than ETN) also link both cities. Primera Plus is a good company to check out. Round trip tickets should cost around USD 60.
- It is feasible to drive from Mexico City, the road is well maintained and safe (it is a toll-road). However, given the situation in Michoacán, I don’t recommend this option – bear in mind that you may have to exit the toll road for food or gas, and it may not be smooth sailing.
Safety
- I went through the safety situation at the beginning of the article, given the US State Department “Do Not Travel” advisory over Michoacán. That being said, the same advisory says that Morelia, the roads between Mexico City and Morelia and between Morelia’s airport and the city itself are safe. I never felt unsafe in any way in Morelia, even at night, even alone on the street. I stayed in the historic center, however, but most of the violence is situated away from the capital, and notably in Uruapan, a city I do not recommend adding to your agenda at this point.
Restaurants and coffeeshops
- Lu – located in the Hotel Casino, on the zócalo, Lu was my go-to place for healthy and delicious breakfast. Service is courteous and fast, and they serve both international staples and typical Morelia dishes, while offering you a view on the town’s main square.
- El Güero de la Merced – Morelia’s iconic gazpacho store. They have several outlets in the city, but this one was the closest to my hotel (and the main sights). They claim to be Morelia’s original gazpacho restaurant. It’s a takeout place, and they make the fruit salad in front of you. You can pick your mix of fruits and spices. Beware, there seems to always be a line (always a good sign). I also had good gazpacho here.
- Taqueria La Poblanita - I had delicious tacos there. Not luxurious in any means, with somewhat basic service, but always full of locals, and delicious food. Cash only. English is not spoken (but you can point at the big menu on the wall). It’s located on Humboldt street, between a Panaderia and a Chinese restaurant, at number 106.
Images from top to bottom: Morelia’s cathedral seen from Benito Juarez street, on the way to Morelia on highway 15D, arches lining Morelia’s zócalo, the cathedral at night in rainy weather, front seats in a double-decker ETN bus, Morelia’s cathedral, inside the Clavijero cultural center, a typical Morelia gazpacho, one of the (few) colorful corners in Morelia’s historical center.
All images are mine.