San Luis Potosí, Mexico.
The metropolitan cathedral of San Luis Potosí, on the plaza de Armas.
Off the beaten path, this northern city is a treasure trove of grand colonial architecture.
Traveling through the northern parts of Mexico, it is hard to miss how the silver trade shaped the country during the colonial era. Spanish invaders hoped they would find gold and silver in the conquered territories, based on jewelry worn by the indigenous population, but they had no idea of the amount of precious metals they would discover, especially in the Bajio region.
While silver mining began in Taxco, three hours south of Mexico City, in 1534, the first substantial mine was discovered near Zacatecas, in the northern part of today-Mexico, in 1546, which encouraged further exploration into the area, leading to discovery of mines near Guanajuato and San Luis Potosí.
The city of San Luis Potosí was founded in 1592, to help manage the nearby silver mines. Most sources record that the city was christened “San Luis” to honor Louis IX, king of France, who was later canonized as Saint-Louis (or San Luis in Spanish), although a few sources mention the name San Luis comes from then-New Spain Viceroy Luis de Velasco.
Everyone agrees on where the Potosí addition comes from, however. Because locals hoped their mine would rival what was then the biggest silver mine in the world under Spanish control, the Potosí mine in modern Bolivia, they added the word Potosí to San Luis, and the city (and state) would therefore be known as San Luis Potosí.
A detail view of the ex-convent of San Francisco.
After visiting Guanajuato and Morelia, two stunning Mexican colonial cities, I had my sights on a few others, and San Luis was high on that list. It also helped that Real de Catorce, a former small mining town in the state, was one of the first towns to be awarded the title of pueblo mágico, in 2001. It added to the appeal of a visit to the state, and I decided to check out both in the span of a week, in late July 2025.
I could have taken a bus to San Luis - it’s a five to six-hour drive from Mexico City, putting it as far as Aguascalientes in terms of ride time. I had bused my way to Aguascalientes a few weeks before. The only hitch was that the distance between San Luis Potosí and Real de Catorce meant I would lose pretty much one day each way to get to the magical town, so it made sense to fly into San Luis to save some time.
The city felt oddly unpretentious, as if unaware of how beautiful it was.
I landed at the tiny SLP airport late morning on a Monday, and quickly made my way to the town center.
It’s hard to understand how the city hasn’t truly been discovered by foreign tourists, given its beauty and historic value. For now, I was enjoying being one of the only non-Mexican tourists walking around the colonial buildings, looking up and around in awe. The perception of Mexico as an unsafe, cartel-dominated country probably explains some of it, and although the violence stemming from that is real, it is also highly localized.
Colorful colonial houses and a tree in the historic center of San Luis Potosí.
Perhaps San Luis Potosí is a bit too close to states deemed dangerous by the US State Department, like Zacatecas and Tamaulipas, or perhaps its understated beauty isn’t seen by most as iconically Mexican as the colorful buildings of Puebla or Guanajuato. In any case, the city being a bit overlooked in Mexico travel guides worked to my advantage, as I enjoyed a few days experiencing authentic Mexico.
Don’t get me wrong: this doesn’t mean you won’t find a Starbucks or a Hilton hotel, and readers looking for the comfort of US brands will be happy to know they’re there - but they are few and far between, and I never felt like they were there to cater for tourists.
The historic center of San Luis Potosí was awarded the UNESCO designation of World Heritage site in 2010, as part of the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro (The Royal Road of the Interior Land) for its historical significance and the quality of the town’s preservation. As such, this area of the city is where I spent most of my time.
I had picked a hotel 20 minutes away by foot - I was trying to stay close to a gym to be able to work out before my cultural wanderings, and although it got hot in the hours right after noon, the walk to and from the downtown area was pleasurable.
San Luis counts with three main squares that structure its center. I reached the first one, Plaza Fundadores (Founders’ square) via Carranza avenue, a gorgeous street lined with an arcade where people were leisurely sitting at terraces, sipping coffee. If I am being honest, I was a little underwhelmed by plaza Fundadores at first. While it has historical significance, as the place where the city of San Luis was founded, it is as big as it feels empty, and its sides are a mishmash of architectural styles, most of them questionable and not very well maintained. Yet once I got to the center of the square and turned around, it hit me: two sides of the square are actually beautiful. The one with the Ipiña building, and the one to its right, featuring the Our Lady of Loreto church and the San Luis Potosí university museum.
Our Lady of Carmel church in San Luis Potosí.
The Ipiña building was especially interesting for me, owing to its history. Built in the early 20th century, it was heavily inspired by arcade buildings found on Rivoli street, a famous shopping thoroughfare in Paris. It could have felt out place in the middle of a Mexican colonial city, but it actually blended in quite well.
Just a few hundred yards later, I got to plaza de Armas, arguably San Luis’ main square, home of the Government palace and the magnificent Spanish baroque metropolitan cathedral. I have to admit I may be a little partial to this type of architecture, for I noticed the main church is usually what I remember the most in any Mexican town I visit.
It may also be because, at the time of their construction, churches like these were truly at the center of city life, and their location, size and architectural design was meant to signify the important place religion had in Mexico’s colonial era.
It would be hard to argue this wasn’t the case in San Luis, and although the Government palace, on the opposite end of the square, was more imposing, the one building you couldn’t not admire on plaza de Armas was indeed the cathedral.
A street along the Guerrero gardens in San Luis Potosí, Mexico.
Unlike plaza Fundadores, the square felt much more welcoming. It was a fair bit smaller, with a garden and an elevated kiosk in its middle, where children were playing boisterously. The area around it was pedestrian-only, which helped bring a sense of (relative) quiet to it. It was the first time, being in San Luis Potosí, that I felt transported back a few centuries, in a place which didn’t seem to have changed much ever since it was built.
The latest incarnation of San Luis’ main church, as I saw it during my trip, was built between 1670 and 1730. A smaller church previously existed in its place: it was erected in 1592 when the city was founded, but the riches coming from the nearby mines meant that a much grander building could take its place. It was later consecrated a cathedral, in 1854.
I ended up on San Francisco square, which quickly became one of my favorite spots in the city.
The cathedral’s exterior is covered in pink quarry stone, typical of the area, and much lighter in color than the one used in Morelia. It’s a full-on testament to the Spanish Baroque style of the era, even if it is a lot less colorful than many smaller churches of the same period around Mexico. Its heavily sculpted facade is a fascinating testament of the expertise and talent of the region’s artisans.
The south tower, with its characteristic orange tint, was built first, and the second tower, a carbon copy of the first, save for its color, was added at the beginning of the 20th century. The cathedral’s interior was updated when the church became a cathedral, and is decorated in the neoclassical style, with a focus on gold, light blue and pink accents.
The National mask museum building on Plaza del Carmen in San Luis Potosí.
I could have stayed on plaza de Armas a long time, but another square was calling, the last of the main one in the city: plaza del Carmen, a couple of blocks to the east (the historic center is rather large, but the main highlights are located within close distance of each other).
The largest of the three main squares, it featured a fountain and French-style gardens, around which I could see the Our Lady of Mount Carmel church, the Viceroyalty museum, the town’s theater and the National Masks museum. While beautiful, many of the buildings weren’t built during the Spanish Viceroyalty, but post Mexican independence, in the Porfiriato years Their neoclassical style reminded me, again, of Paris. The facade of the Teatro de la Paz, one of the most important in Mexico, gave me Bourbon palace vibes (the palace houses the French National Assembly, the lower house of parliament, in Paris).
I wholeheartedly recommend checking out the Viceroyalty museum, both for its well-preserved colonial architecture and for the exhibited pieces which shed a light on the art of the Spain-dominated era of Mexico. I also found the Masks museum (Museo Nacional de la Máscara) very interesting, and especially relevant when explaining, in context, the history and various meanings of masks in pre-Hispanic Mexico.
I felt like my first day was already pretty full, but I kept walking, somewhat randomly, through San Luis’ center, enjoying the various colonial buildings almost to the point of overdose (if that’s even possible). During my walk, I ended up on San Francisco square, which quickly became one of my favorite spots in the city.
The ex-convent of San Francisco tower, seen from the Guerrero gardens, in San Luis Potosí.
What it lacked in grandeur, it more than made up in character. Smaller than the more formal squares I had just visited, San Francisco square, officially Jardín Guerrero, or Guerrero gardens, felt more intimate, with its wood benches shaded by tall, old trees. On the eastern side of the square sat the San Francisco temple, which used to be a Franciscan convent, one of the most important in the northern part of then-New Spain. Construction began during the city foundation, at the end of the 16th century. Considered one of the most remarkable churches of the city, the temple features beautiful paintings, sculptures and furnishings.
A lot of people visit the ex-convent for the gorgeous city views on its rooftop, but it would be a mistake to pass on the Potosí regional museum, which narrates the history of the state. It was a very pleasant experience.
I got out of the Guerrero gardens somewhat exhausted (the punishing sun was probably to blame), and walked back to my hotel, where I didn’t last long. This wasn’t one of these read-until-11pm kind of evening.
I used my second day in the city to explore further south in the historic center, and made my way to the San Luis Potosí arts center. Housed in the former state penitentiary, build in the late 19th century during, you guessed it, the Porfiriato, the massive, overwhelming building has been reinvented as an art space, housing many temporary exhibits as well as the space I was there to see: the Leonora Carrington museum.
Detail of a sculpture by Mexican surrealist artist Leonora Carrington, seen in the eponymous museum in San Luis Potosí.
Leonora Carrington, born British but later naturalized Mexican, was one of the most famous female surrealist painters, and one of its most prominent voices in Mexico. Her connection with the state came from the patronage of Edward James, a wealthy British poet, a supporter of Surrealism since the movement’s early days, and the owner of a fantastical garden in the tropical forest of Xilitla, a town in the western part of the state of San Luis Potosí.
Carrington’s work, spanning painting, sculpture and writing, is beautifully put in context in one of the best parts of the Arts Center, along with a history of Surrealism that you’re nudged to check before moving to the actual museum. It was a beautiful discovery, and I recommend you pay it a visit.
It was now close to lunch time. I was really looking forward to eating gorditas , these thick corn cakes filled like pita bread with typical Mexican guisados. Reddit had recommended just the right place for me, near plaza Aranzazú (as always, detailed information on all the places mentioned here is available in the Practical Information section below).
Unfortunately for my stomach, the place was closed for the owners’ annual vacation, and would only reopen minutes after my bus was scheduled to leave the next day. A Google search quickly found me another place for my delicacy of choice, which was very basic (as in: “we don’t sell drinks, go get your Coke at the Oxxo across the street” kind of vibe) but delicious.
A street in the colonial center of San Luis Potosí.
I wandered some more in San Luis colonial streets, enjoyed the late afternoon light on the plaza de Armas, making the cathedral even more beautiful than usual.
I really enjoyed my visit to the city, though I didn’t think I would as much. It is, for me, one of the best preserved colonial city in Mexico, and one with, like Morelia, a lot of consistency in its urbanism and architecture, which gives it this incredible cachet. What was even more surprising was how the city felt oddly unpretentious, as if it wasn’t aware of how beautiful it was.
I left San Luis on a Wednesday morning, on a bus towards Real de Catorce, my next destination in the state, and another gem. Stay tuned.
Practical information (updated as of August 2025)
Getting to the city of San Luis Potosí
How to get to San Luis Potosí from the United States: San Luis Potosí’s small international airport (SLP) is served by American and United airlines from the US. Mexican airlines Aeromexico and Volaris also fly internationally from there. As of publishing time, United links SLP with Houston (IAH) twice a day, American with Dallas Fort Worth (DFW) once a day, and Aeromexico with Atlanta (ATL) once a day as well. Volaris serves Dallas (DFW), Houston (IAH), San Antonio (SAT) with less than daily frequency. The Mexican low-cost airline also serves Tijuana airport (TIJ) several times a week, which can be a convenient flying point for Southern Californians, via the TJX terminal (the US-side terminal of Tijuana airport).
Once in SLP airport, the city itself is a 20-mn cab or Uber ride away. An Uber to the city center should cost between USD8 and USD12, depending on traffic.
How to get to San Luis Potosí from Mexico City: the easiest way to get to San Luis from the capital is to fly. Aeromexico has 4 flights a day between Mexico City’s main airport, MEX and SLP, most operated by its Aeromexico Connect subsidiary aboard comfortable Embraer 195 regional jets. Flight time is usually no more than 45 minutes.
Another option is to take a bus. Several companies run services between the two cities, most form Mexico City’s Northern bus terminal. ETN, Mexico’s luxury bus company, serves the route more than 10 times daily, and many first-class bus companies, like Primera Plus, Futura and Senda do so as well. Note that Senda also offers executive buses via its Senda Diamante service. If you’re unclear what the differences are between first class, executive and luxury buses, check out this article. The trip usually takes between 5 and 6 hours, depending on traffic.
When to go to San Luis Potosí
Like most Mexican highland cities, San Luis Potosí is a year-round destination, with comfortable, sunny weather pretty much every day. It can get hot in late spring and summer, and it is possible to see rain between June and September, but rain usually happens in late afternoon, lasts a couple of hours, and shouldn’t be a reason to avoid the region at that time.
I traveled to San Luis Potosí in July and August, and the weather was gorgeous. The best months may be February, March and November, which you’ll see listed as the best months to travel for basically any place in the Mexican highlands. There is no rain then, and the temperatures are comfortable, without ever getting too hot or too cold. But really, any month will be fine.
Safety in San Luis Potosí
Just like neighboring Aguascalientes, the state of San Luis Potosí has been given a Level 2 advisory by the US State Department, which means “exercise increased caution” when traveling there. While other states in the northern part of Mexico are slapped with an ominous Level 4 warning (including close-by Zacatecas), San Luis Potosí is considered very safe. For perspective, a Level 2 advisory is similar to what you’d encounter in Mexico City, Hong Kong or Paris, cities that are not known to scare off wary travelers.
It’s always good to know where you’re headed before getting out on the street and, as a general advice, to not flash expensive clothing, cameras or phones. Don’t make yourself a target, but, on the other hand, you don’t need to look over your shoulder every second or so. The city and the eponymous state are safe by any standard.
Just keep an eye on the US Department of State travel advisory. Zacatecas state is closer than you think, and the situation there is very different, with a Level 4 “do not travel” advisory. There is no reason to think this could spill into San Luis Potosí, but it’s always better to check before confirming your plans.
In any case, I never felt unsafe during my 6-day stay in the state of San Luis Potosí, whether in the city or in the countryside, in a Uber or a colectivo, during the day or looking for great local food at night.
Food & lodging in San Luis Potosí
There are many hotels available in and around the town, with quite a few properties from American chains, mostly on the outskirts, close to the industrial areas. You will not have any issue finding accommodation, but I would recommend staying within walking distance of the historic downtown, which is where most of what you’ll want to see in the city is located.
I stayed at an affordable hotel, City Express Junior, about 20 minutes from the center by foot. The City Express chain was acquired by Marriott last year and I wanted to check it out. It was super basic, so don’t expect Westin levels of design and comfort, but perfectly adapted to my needs. The breakfast would put many US economy hotels to shame, and was included in my rate. All in all, I paid around USD60 per night (City Express Junior Carranza, GoogleMaps)
Near my hotel was this low-key local restaurant serving delicious local food called La Huasteca, where I had delicious sopes that made me want to come back the following day. The owners do not speak a word of English, the menu is all in Spanish (which are signs I am about to get an authentic experience, so I liked that), but the food was amazing.
The delicious regional sopes from La Huasteca, in San Luis Potosí.
I wanted to try this Reddit-approved gorditas restaurant in the center of town, close to the San Francisco gardens, La Guerrero, but the owners were on annual leave the week I was in town, so I went and found gorditas elsewhere. I would check it out if I came back in town though.
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