Malinalco, Mexico.
A quiet, understated pueblo mágico full of architectural and historical treasures.
The road we were traveling on was twisting and turning, and though we had left Mexico City about ninety minutes before, it felt like we were hundreds of miles away. My mobile phone had not connected to a cell tower in a while, and the nature around us reminded me a little bit of the Oaxacan countryside. I had to pinch myself to realize we actually were in the state of Mexico.
Suddenly, after a steep curve, a huge Virgin statue appeared, seemingly out of place, on the side of the mountain. The Virgen de Chalma, as she is known, is, in fact, the tallest statue representing the Virgin Mary in the world. She stood out, somewhat incongruously, among the greenery of the surrounding mountains.
Malinalco has always been a place with a certain magical je-ne-sais-quoi.
This was a sign we were approaching the town of Chalma, a famous pilgrimage site in the state of Mexico, and the last stop on the Flecha Roja bus we had hopped on in Mexico City. Malinalco, our final destination, laid a few more miles away, but we would have to grab a taxi to get there.
Malinalco, a somewhat off-the-radar pueblo mágico in the state of Mexico, piqued my curiosity for a few reasons. First, it’s full of Spanish colonial architecture, including a magnificent Augustine monastery in the center of town. Second, it also features pre-Hispanic ruins of critical interest. Finally, getting there without a car isn’t the easiest, and it keeps the town from being overwhelmed by tourists every fin de semana, and I quite liked the idea of spending a weekend away from the crowds. We decided to spend a short weekend there in early March 2025.
A view of the mountains surrounding Malinalco, looking towards the Aztec ruins.
Our taxi dropped us as close as possible to the town’s zócalo, or main square, taken over by a colorful market. My first impression was a little underwhelming – calle Galeana, where we got off, wasn’t the prettiest. However, this was about to change.
Because we were starving after a 2h30 trip in a bus with no air-conditioning, we went straight for lunch at Casa Colibri, a cute restaurant off the zócalo with a terrace overlooking the square and the monastery. We welcomed the light breeze we could feel three floors up, as the heat felt more intense than in the city (the village’s lower elevation, at 1750m, probably explained it).
The view from the terrace helped us realize how narrow the Malinalco valley is. The town is surrounded on all sides by steep hills. It would become even more obvious a few hours later, from the vantage point of the Cuauhtinchán Aztec ruins. It gave the town a certain aura, as if its streets were protecting us from the oppressive mountains surrounding us.
Malinalco has always been a place with a certain magical je-ne-sais-quoi, ever since pre-Hispanic times. In that regard, it is pretty similar to another magical town nearby, Tepoztlán. Legend has it that the Aztec goddess of snakes, scorpions and insects of the desert, Malinalxochitl, chose the town as her place of abode (in less friendly retellings of the legend, she was actually abandoned there, while asleep, by her brother, the leader of the Mexica tribe, Huitzilopochtlli). The name of the town derives from the goddess’ name and means “Place of Malinalxochitl”. Back in pre-Hispanic times, the town was also renowned for its temazcal ceremonies (a type of curative sauna experience to purify the body after an important effort, like a battle).
A panoramic view of Malinalco from the Aztec ruins.
After enjoying a delicious meal at Casa Colibri, where I got to try wild boar (jabalí) tacos for the first time, we walked to the outskirts of town to drop our bags at the hotel, then turned right back towards the village to climb to the archeological zone.
Conflicting information about the park’s opening time made us hurry a bit, but I was glad we hadn’t intended to hike up right when we arrived, as the heat was starting to feel a little less exhausting at 3.30pm. In fact, the park closes at 5pm, but access to the ruins at the top ends at 4.30pm (more details in the practical information section at the end of the article).
What makes the Cuauhcalli temple extraordinary is that it was carved directly into the mountain.
The hike up wasn’t super easy. The path is actually made of wide stone steps that are very well maintained, but the elevation change and the afternoon heat made this a bit strenuous. I am glad we persevered, however.
The Malinalco ruins, technically called Cuauhtinchán, overlook the village in a strategic location with a panoramic view over the valley, on the side of the Cerro de los Ídolos (Hill of Idols). While there were ceremonial buildings there erected by the Malinalca people before the 16th century, the current complex was built by Aztecs starting in 1501, after taking over the territory from the Malinalca in 1476. Construction stopped in 1521, after the Aztecs were defeated by the invading Spanish army.
The famous Cuauhcalli temple in the archeological zone of Malinalco.
The site’s main purpose was to be a sanctuary for the Aztec elite warriors, built to project strength outside of their capital, Tenotchitlan. In the most notable building on the site, the Cuauhcalli temple or “dwelling of the brave and strong eagle and jaguar warriors”, was carried the initiation ritual for the most important order in the Aztec military hierarchy.
This would be enough to give the site its historical importance – being the place of initiation for the most prestigious military corps in any civilization, but what makes the Cuauhcalli temple even more extraordinary is that it was carved directly into the mountain, drawing parallels with famous antique temples like Petra, in Jordan or Abu Simbel, in Egypt, albeit on a smaller scale. In defense of the Aztecs, it is said they only used stone tools to carve the temple, whereas both Petra and Abu Simbel were sculpted with metal tools, making their creation somewhat easier.
While the temple’s interior is said to be beautiful and high in warrior symbolism, its access is restricted and we weren’t able to see it.
There are a few other buildings on the site – eleven total, including a small yet beautiful pyramid right next to the Cuauhcalli temple, and Edificio Cuatro, where sun ceremonies were celebrated. We took some time to wander about the site, taking in the breathtaking view over Malinalco and its valley… until 4.32pm, when a guard found us and explained that the access to the ruins was now closed and we had to leave. We spent around thirty minutes up there, and it felt sufficient for, however amazing the site and the ruins are, the area is fairly small.
A street in Malinalco before sunset.
We hiked back down under a more forgiving sun, grabbed a well-deserved soda (or two) at the bottom of the stairs, and walked back towards the town center.
The afternoon light was painting the buildings in golden hues that made the streets feel even more magical – maybe that’s why I almost got myself a pendulum at one of the numerous boutiques lining calle Agustín Melgar. A few minutes later, we ended back on the zócalo, near the ever photogenic Malinalco letter sign.
The monastery houses amazing fresco paintings symbolizing the Garden of Eden through the regional flora and fauna.
We took our time walking through the narrow alleys of the market that had taken that square over, an eclectic mix of colorful displays of regional fruits and vegetables, food stalls and souvenirs. The market was crowded yet not overwhelming. Mostly well-fed stray dogs (perros callejeros) were hanging out near the stalls, hoping for a cut of meat here and there. I relished the fact we were in the middle of a very Mexican tradition, the local weekend market, without a single foreign tourist in sight.
We headed back to the hotel with a heavy bag of local fruits that would become our dinner, and called it a night fairly quickly.
Avenida Hidalgo in Malinalco, Mexico.
On Sunday morning, we went back into town to visit the Augustine monastery. It sits right next to the town’s main church, on the zócalo, and both are surrounded by a nice park that offers a welcome reprieve from the bustling market nearby.
I have to admit I wasn’t prepared for how beautiful this monastery was. Here, I will make another comparison to Tepoztlán, where the stunning old convent of the Nativity, a UNESCO World Heritage site, built around the same time, was a highlight of our trip. Unlike Tepoztlán, where the convent’s walls are painted in muted red tones, the Augustine monastery courtyard houses amazing examples of fresco paintings by indigenous artists known as the Tlacuilos, paintings that symbolize the Garden of Eden through the regional flora and fauna.
It's hard to describe how unexpectedly beautiful these black, white and blue paintings appear as you walk along the shaded hallways of the courtyard. From afar, the texture reminded me of French embroidered tapestry, and the richness and depth of the colors, untouched for several centuries, make the visit unforgettable.
After wandering a little bit in the church’s park, we walked aimlessly in town, had a light lunch and came back to our hotel, grabbed a taxi and headed out for Chalma.
The stunning fresco paintings in Malinalco's Augustine convent.
This is not to say we couldn’t have stayed longer. As a matter of fact, I wish we could have, not because there were many more things to do in Malinalco but rather because I loved the town’s slow pace, its natural beauty, and the sense that we were off the beaten path, in a more mellow version of Tepoztlán.
If you’re looking for a charming village close to Mexico City that sits on the roads less traveled, Malinalco should be high on your list.
Practical information (updated as of March 2025)
Getting there
- Getting to Malinalco from the US: Mexico City’s main airport, MEX, is the most convenient airport to fly into. From MEX airport, you will need to head to the Terminal Central de Autobuses del Poniente, also called Estación de Autobuses Observatorio. Depending on traffic, it can be a 30 minute Uber ride from the airport… or a much longer one. The bus station is also located very near the subway station Observatorio, on Mexico City’s subway line #1. Unfortunately, as of March 1, 2025, the section of the line serving Observatorio is closed for renovations. Please see below for additional directions.
- Getting to Malinalco from Mexico City: head to the Estacion de Autobuses Poniente, also called Estacion de Autobuses Observatorio. Flecha Roja is the bus company that serves the Malinalco area with second-class services. Second class services are comfortable buses but, unlike first-class services, they offer slightly less leg-room, no bathroom, no A/C and no advance seat assignments (more on the various kinds of bus services in Mexico here). Our ride was fine, although I can imagine it gets very hot in the bus during the hot season, in April or May. Note there are three ways to get to Malinalco from CDMX with Flecha Roja:
o In theory, the easiest way would be to grab the one daily Flecha Roja bus that goes all the way to Malinalco, which leaves Observatorio at 4.30pm every day. It’s a second-class service so that means no advance booking. You’d have to show up to the station early to get a seat, as I am told this is a service that regularly sells out. Locals and Flecha Roja personnel gave me various answers on whether this service is still the only direct way to get into town, so triple-check this before going. Price should be around MXN170, which you can pay by cash or card at the Flecha Roja counter (on the way back, the bus leaves Malinalco very early, around 6am, as it caters to people leaving in the village and working in CDMX).
o You may also take a Flecha Roja bus to Tenango del Valle and ask the bus driver to drop you where the road to Malinalco starts. You can then take a colectivo that gets you to Malinalco for about MXN30. It felt like a long way so we didn’t choose that option.
The Flecha Roja bus that we took to Chalma, at the Chalma bus station.
o The last option, which we picked, involves taking a Flecha Roja bus to Chalma. Chalma is a pilgrimage town close to Malinalco, and as a result, gets good bus coverage, with a bus leaving about every 30 minutes from Observatorio. As a reminder, these are second-class buses that you can’t book in advance, and they leave when they are full so the schedule isn’t set in stone, but we didn’t have to wait more than fifteen minutes in each direction. Once in Chalma, after a little over 2 hours of a bus ride on somewhat small and curvy roads, you can get a taxi for Malinalco for about MXN150 and 20 minutes later, you’ll be in the pueblo mágico. You may do the same for the return, by either having your hotel call you a taxi or pick one up at the taxi station located here, at the corner of Morelos and Galeana streets. Just be aware that according to our bus driver, the last Flecha Roja bus from Chalma to CDMX leaves at 6.30pm.
- For more information about bus travel in Mexico and an explanation of what amenities you’ll get in a second-class bus, see here.
Getting to Cuauhtinchán, Malinalco’s archeological zone
- The Malinalco Aztec ruins are located above the village, on a steep slope from which you get a gorgeous view of the whole valley. Walking from the zócalo, it took us about 40 minutes in total to get to the top.
- By foot: you can access the entrance to Malinalco pre-hispanic ruins by walking on Amaljac street until you reach a small street on the right with a sign to the ruins. From there, you may walk a few minutes to the actual entrance of the park, where you’ll pay the entry fee of MXN80. After that, it takes about 20 minutes to get to a fence that signals the entrance to the actual ruins. The path is made of wide stone steps and is in pretty good condition, so it felt easier and shorter than climbing up the Tepozteco in Tepoztlán. Note the gates at the bottom are open every day except Monday from 9am to 5pm, but the access to the ruins ceases at 4.30pm (don’t ask me how I know). My recommendation for the best light would be to ascend by 3.30pm so you can be at the top by 4pm and enjoy 30 minutes in the ruins, which should be enough. Here is an AllTrails link to the hike.
- By taxi: you can get dropped here if you’d like to save some time or effort, but from there you will have to walk you way up to the ruins It should take about 30 minutes for a regular hiker from this point.
- The hike to the ruins does take some effort, although it is by no means a difficult one. There is very limited shade for most of the path, so my advice would be to aim to do this around opening time in the morning, or, even better as the light will be nicer, to start around 3pm or at the latest 3.30pm to enjoy the ruins in the late afternoon.
Safety
- Malinalco is very safe. The US State Department labels the state of Mexico as a level 2 state, meaning “Exercise increased caution” when you travel (this level 2 also applies to most developed European countries, which are not known for their crime levels). Behave as you would in a place you don’t know, especially if you don’t speak the language, and you will be fine. I never felt unsafe at any point in or around Malinalco.
Lodging and food
- We splurged a little bit on this weekend trip and picked a fancier hotel than usual, called Quinta Ascención. The hotel sits about 15 minutes by foot from the center of the village, in a fairly quiet area, and features a pool, on top of glorious views of the surrounding mountains that reminded me a little bit of Palm Springs, sans the palm trees. Rooms start at about USD150 per night with taxes. The room was fairly luxurious and well designed. The property welcomes three well-behaved cats, so keep that in mind if you are allergic.
- Food-wise, we had lunch at Casa Colibri, a suggestion from Mexican TikTok that I am glad we followed. The view from the terrace over the zócalo and the convent was beautiful and the food delicious (I especially recommend the wild boar tacos). Another restaurant that was recommended to us that we didn’t check was Casa Valentina. Special mention for Coclico, where the French-inspired deserts were delicious (and they are available as takeout as well).
Photos, from top to bottom: looking towards the Aztec ruins (barely visible at the top left of the photo) from Malinalco’s zócalo, the gorgeous blue church at the corner of Guerrero and Carranza streets, in front of the mountains surrounding the town, a panoramic view of Malinalco from the Aztec ruins, the famous Cuauhcalli temple in the archeological zone of Malinalco, the same blue church upclose in the late afternoon light, Avenida Hidalgo, the stunning fresco paintings in Malinalco's Augustine convent and the Flecha Roja bus that got us fromMexico City to Chalma.
All photos are mine.