Ichkabal, Mexico.

The Maya City that’s still sleeping beneath the jungle.

Looking for concrete details and tips? Go straight to the Practical Information section.

This article is part of a week-long trip through the southern part of the Yucatán peninsula. On day 4 of my visit, I drove to the Mayan ruins of Ichkabal from Bacalar, where I was based for a few days.

As I was driving my rattling rental car on the asphalt-fresh road to the Ichkabal archeological zone, my expectations were high. Hadn’t it been nicknamed the “Mesoamerican Egypt” for the size of its pyramids? Hadn’t El País written about how the ancient Mayan city was set to rival Chichen Itzá?

When I had inquired about things to do near Bacalar upon checking into my hotel the night before, the lovely front desk attendant immediately suggested Ichkabal with sparkles in her eyes, so I had set my hopes on super high. In fact, I decided to start my exploration of the Maya sites near Bacalar with this one for this very reason. I would visit Dzibanché, Kinichná and Kohunlich the next day. But I had to start with Ichkabal, if I were to believe the hype.

Ichkabal is indeed a pillar of the Mexican government’s push to develop the southern Yucatán region and bring it the economic benefits of tourism afforded to the northern region, home to famous resorts like Cancún, colonial gems like Mérida and, of course, many Maya sites, of which Chichen Itzá and Uxmal are probably the most famous.

I had left Bacalar about thirty minutes before, and, after the turn off in El Suspiro, was driving through a dense jungle, half expecting to see animals dart just in front of my car. Ichkabal was only discovered in 1995, located as it was in the middle of a deep forest, and only opened to the public in 2024, to much fanfare. In fact, its name means “between the lowlands” in modern Maya, speaking to the fact it was built in a remote forested area that was susceptible to flooding.

The site map of the Ichkabal archeological zone.

The investments made by the Mexican government were obvious even before getting to the site: where else in rural Yucatán could you take advantage of a full bike lane on the side of the road?

Ichkabal is, for now, accessible for free to everyone, Mexican citizens and foreigners alike. Backpacks and, unexpectedly, cameras are prohibited on the site, and I was asked to leave mine into a locker in a small room behind me (the lockers were secure).

Enjoying Ichkabal was, in a way, an exercise in projection

While I understood why the Mexican government wouldn’t want people with a backpack in an archeological zone where excavations are still taking places and invaluable treasures are bound to be found, the camera restriction puzzled me. Thankfully, photo-taking with a phone was allowed.

Built in the pre-Classic Maya period, around 600 AD, Ichkabal was, during its heyday, closely related to the city of Dzibanché, the Kaan capital located further to the southwest. The entire site is huge, covering more than 23 square miles (60 square kilometers), although the archeological zone, covering only some of the pyramids of the original city, is much smaller.

A partially excavated pyramind in Ichkabal.

What makes Ichkabal special is the size of some of its major buildings, showcasing the importance of the settlement in pre-Hispanic America, and this is what prompted the Mexican government to hype the city as the new Chichen Itzá. Indeed, some of the pyramids’ height was impressive, yet it was somewhat hard to fully realize how tall these temples were, as most of them were surrounded by thick vegetation.

To fully grasp how powerful this city once was, I had to focus instead on the size of its main plaza, around which the visit unfolded. It covered almost 14 acres, and felt absolutely massive. To think that what reads today as an empty field was once the center of political life in Ichkabal was quite something.

My slight disappointment with this ancient city stemmed from this. Although ready to welcome tourists with an execution that I wish was similar in many other sites, this archeological zone was clearly a work-in-progress. Some of the most impressive buildings, Edificios 4 and 5 (see map at the top of the article) weren’t fully excavated yet, and still partly covered with trees, somewhat hiding their true size from the visitor, and preventing me from experiencing that wow factor I was counting on.

Drone pictures taken from above were indeed impressive, but from the ground, I wasn’t as impressed as I expected by their size, the way I was in Chichen Itza (where the Kukulkán pyramid stands alone in a grass field, allowing us to see it in full) or, even more recently in Calakmul: pyramids, while surrounded by jungle, were devoid enough of vegetation that you could really feel their true size by looking at them. In a way, my photos don’t do the site justice.

Building #7 in Ichkabal.

Enjoying Ichkabal, in a way, was an exercise in projection, in imagining what these buildings would look like without the screen of trees blocking the perspective. I assumed that this would be part of the next round of site excavations, to fully help tourists grasp the sheer majesty of this settlement.

In other words, the site is perfect now to get a glimpse at one of the most powerful centers of Mesoamerica, understanding a lot of it has yet to be fully uncovered. In that sense, it is a very fulfilling experience, to be able to witness, almost live, the discovery of such an incredible work of urban architecture.

Don’t expect, however, the Instagram appeal of a photo-ready city, the way Tulum can be. Ichkabal isn’t this yet, and perhaps never will, but that’s also what makes it charming and what will hopefully keep the site rather hush-hush for a little while.

What stayed with me

Although not as photogenic as other southern Yucatán sites, Ichkabal’s magic, for me, laid in the undiscovered mounds hiding pyramids and in the barely excavated stairs leading to the top of buildings 4 and 5. Before the beginning of my trip, I was thinking we knew all we could know about the Maya civilization, and that we had already unearthed every single structure worth studying. It was humbling to realize the process was far from over, and would probably continue for generations.

I left Ichkabal enjoying that feeling that history was being rediscovered right there and then, in front of my eyes.

Practical information

(everything you could possibly want to know about Ichkabal - updated as of November 2025)

In a nutshell

Not yet ready for prime time as a rival to Chichen Itzá, Ichkabal is nonetheless worth of visit for the sheer size of the site and to witness the patient discovery of a critical part of Maya history, still hidden under thick foliage.

Entrance fee: free for now

Opening hours: 8am to 5pm (last entry at 4pm)

Visit should last approximately forty-five minutes to an hour.

Travel time is 45 minutes from Bacalar and 1h20 from Chetumal.

The brand new visitor center in Ichkabal.

Getting to Ichkabal

How to get to Ichkabal from the United States: the Maya site is located in southern Quintana Roo, Mexico, about 45 minutes from Bacalar and 1h20 from Chetumal. Assuming the site visit is part of a broader Yucatán itinerary, the closest airport to Ichkabal is Chetumal (CTM) . It has no direct flights to and from the US, making a connection in Mexico City (MEX) indispensable. A rental car is most appropriate and can be picked up at the airport. Getting to archeological zones can be done easily with an organized tour, and most leave from either Chetumal or Bacalar, but any other mode of transportation will be complicated (regular buses do not serve the archeological zones, and a taxi, unless rented for the day, may not make sense).

Another option could be to fly into Tulum (TQM), if planning a trip spanning more of the Yucatán peninsula, as US and Canadian airlines fly non-stop to the new Tulum airport, but travel time from TQM to Ichkabal is just under three hours. This option works more easily with a rental car, and makes sense if you’re planning to make your way to Bacalar or Chetumal before getting to Ichkabal.

From Bacalar, GoogleMaps may tell you the drive will take 65 minutes because it wants you to make an inexplicable detour through the town of Reforma, a few miles past the turn off to Ichkabal. This isn’t necessary, and you can make a left turn at El Suspiro. The sign to Ichkabal is easy to miss, however, so pay close attention (see picture below).

You can actually bike from Bacalar to Ichkabal. After the turn off in El Suspiro, the road includes a bike lane on the right side, and the archeological zone visitor center has a bike rack.

The turn off to Ichkabal is easy to miss in El Suspiro. Watch for the blue sign.

How to get to Ichkabal from Mexico City: the best way to reach Ichkabal is to fly into Chetumal airport (CTM), from Mexico City’s main airport (MEX) or its secondary airport (NLU). Aeromexico, VivaAerobus and Volaris operate once a day between MEX and CTM while Mexicana and Viva fly several days a week from NLU to CTM, with one-way base prices starting around USD75. Car rentals are widely available at Chetumal airport, from a variety of Mexican and international companies. Ichkabal is 1h20 away on a well-maintained highway, past Bacalar. As mentioned above, you other bet is to book a tour from Chetumal or Bacalar if you’re based there, but no colectivos or regular bus service will drop you at the ruins.

See above on how to not miss the turn off to the ruins, and how you can potentially bike there.

Can I visit more Maya sites than Ichkabal in a day?

Yes, you can and you absolutely should. Other Maya sites of interest in the region are Dzibanché, Kinichná and Kohunlich. You may notice that the Dzibanché and Kinichná archeological zones appear really close to Ichkabal, and indeed they are separated by about 14 miles as the crow flies. In ancient times, there was a path linking the two, which the Mexican government is planning to reopen to pedestrians and, potentially, bikes, but for now, it isn’t possible to go directly between the sites. One has to drive back to Bacalar or through Altos de Sevilla for a total drive time of about two hours to get to Dzibanché.

Cost of entry to Ichkabal

The entrance fee is currently waived for everyone, to help bring awareness to the site. There is no known date when this will end, but the official INAH site confirmed this was a temporary measure.

The bike rack at the Ichkabal visitor center.

Opening times of Ichkabal

The archeological zone is open every day from 8am to 5pm, with the last entry allowed at 4pm.

When to go to Ichkabal

The best months weather-wise to enjoy the southern Yucatán region as a whole are during the dry season, between December and April, with January and February the (relatively) coolest months. This is also peak season so the sites may be a little crowded, but this is all relative. Ichkabal is the newest Maya site to be open to the public in the area and is very easily reached from Bacalar, so it may be a bit more visited than others. On the day of my visit, there were about 15 people on-site with me - it felt completely empty, to be honest.

I traveled to southern Yucatán in October, which is low season, as the combination of possible afternoon showers and intense heat can turn off travelers. I loved the lack of crowds, and the slightly overcast weather which made the heat more tolerable. Yes, it rained almost every day around 5pm for a few minutes to a few hours, but it was all pretty manageable.

Safety in Ichkabal

The Yucatán peninsula is one of the safest areas in Mexico, and Quintana Roo is considered fairly safe: it is labeled a level 2 “Exercise Increased Caution” state, just like Mexico City, or the UK as a whole. Digging deeper, busy cities like Cancún are more likely to be where crime happens, and the advisory shouldn’t, in theory, apply to the sleepy southern region. As such, it is not an area of Mexico where you would have to be a fairly experienced traveler to feel safe. As everywhere else in the country, keep in mind the following: know where you’re going, keep your wits about you, do not flash expensive clothes or phones, don’t do things you shouldn’t do, stay in touristy areas, avoid walking at night.

A shaded sitting area in front of buildings 10, 11 and 12, showcasing the efforts of the Mexican government to beat the Yucatán heat.

Food & lodging in Ichkabal

Hotels

There isn’t any accommodation near the site, but Bacalar is close by (a 45-minute drive) and plenty of hotels and Bnbs are to be found there. I stayed at AmarBacalar, a lodging available on AirBnb, located in the northern part of the city, away from the most touristy areas. I loved the clean room design and the effort made on landscaping - it felt like I was living in a well-maintained jungle.

Restaurants

There is no food available in Kohunlinch proper, given the location of the site, in the middle of the Yucatecan forest. Bring your own, especially water since, unlike other routes, there are no abarrotes (the very Mexican small shops selling essentials) along the way. The last place to stock up is Bacalar, where my go-to place was the Aki supermarket, modern, well-stocked and priced reasonably.

You’ll find many restaurant options in Bacalar.

Keep in mind these travel tips

The Yucatán peninsula is one of the safest regions in Mexico, and its main roads are well maintained. This isn’t enough to forget the #1 driving advice in Mexico: do not drive at night. Driving at night, on poorly lit roads means you won’t see the motorcycles without lights, the potholes and the ubiquitous topes, these notoriously hard speed bumps that spring out of nowhere. You may encounter wildlife or, more prosaically street dogs crossing right in front of you (especially in Bacalar, where there are many). Plan your itinerary to be at your next destination before night fall. It’s important.

No matter what the season, there will be bugs in Yucatán. While you may only see the gigantic Tarántula Yucateca spider on the roads leading to Calakmul, you’ll find mosquitoes pretty much everywhere, and especially in the shaded forests surrounding the Maya ruins. Be ready with repellent at any time of the day. It’s also a good idea to wear clothes that cover your limbs (pants, high socks, long sleeve t-shirts) while you’re in the jungle. Mosquito-borne diseases are fairly uncommon in the state of Quintana Roo, but not unheard of.

SPF will be your best friend. The UV index may be low in the morning and evening, but during the day, it gets pretty high.

Do not forget to hydrate. While OXXOs aren’t as ubiquitous in this rural region as in other ones, you’ll find plenty of abarrotes, these tiny stores selling cold water and sodas along the way (except, specifically on the road to Ichkabal, which is going through barely any settlement along the way). Make sure you always have water handy and drink to make the heat more bearable.

Cell service isn’t the best near Ichkabal, Telcel is the only provider with decent service in the broader region. If you’re roaming, check that you can roam on Telcel, or investigate a Mexican eSIM that uses this network. If not, think about downloading maps for offline use, it may prove very useful.

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All photos are mine and copyrighted.