The Hidden Gems of Orlando, Florida.
Four intimate escapes in nature beyond the theme parks.
Orlando is one of the biggest domestic destinations for US travel, along with New York City, Miami and Los Angeles. The city is immediately associated with theme parks, and wholesome family fun, and for a good reason. It is home to one of the most famous American theme parks, Disney World, among many others.
There are hundreds of websites covering these and all the other popular attractions around Orlando. Beyond the expected however, lies another Orlando, full of nature, teeming with wildlife with a slice of Old Florida thrown in.
Orlando can be a terrific off-the-beaten path destination, and whether you want to let the kids go to Universal Studio and enjoy something else or just discover another side of Central Florida, this diary entry is for you.
I spent some time in Orlando and was based there for a time, so this isn’t a typical trip diary entry but rather a collection of my favorite not-so-traveled places around Orlando that will make you feel like an explorer in one of the most popular vacation spots of the country. Let’s get started.
A nice stroll in a stunning natural reserve: Orlando Wetlands.
The park, about twenty-five miles from downtown Orlando, was man-made and is used to provide treatment for reclaimed water from Orlando and surrounding cities. You wouldn’t be able to tell once you walk along its numerous and well-marked paths. The park itself is more than 1,500 acres and features ponds, lakes and traditional wetlands that make seeing fauna incredibly easy. Watch alligators from a few meters away, see roseate spoonbills resting in the trees, herons and egrets fishing lunch and many other animals. On one afternoon, going around the park in the longest, most circuitous route, I counted eighty-two gators (there were probably many more hidden from view).
The park was recently upgraded with a wooden path, the Cypress Boardwalk, which connects two of the park’s main trails and provides another nice point of view on the water. It’s a must walk if you go there.
The beauty of the Orlando Wetlands is that they are out of the way of the main tourist circuit, and therefore rarely very busy, especially during the week. I can be a great break day before or after a theme park day, and a fun way to get introduced to Florida wildlife living in its own habitat.
The heat can get intense during the day in the summer and there is little shade on the paths so plan accordingly.
How to get there: the park entrance is located on Wheeler Road in the town of Christmas, about thirty-five minutes from downtown Orlando and one hour from Disney World. Entrance is free. The park is open sunrise to sunset every day of the year except Mondays.
Be Indiana Jones in the Florida jungle: Little Big Econ State Forest.
If hiking in a deep forest that was left virtually untouched since Florida was discovered and developed is more your thing, the trails in the Little Big Econ State Forest park are going to make you very happy.
The forest takes its name from two rivers, the Little Econlockhatchee river and its bigger relative the Econlockhatchee river, which merge south of the park.
My favorite trail starts at the Barr Street trailhead and loosely follows the Little Econ river through thick Florida jungle. You’ll see the river meander to your right, and you might see a gator or two (so absolutely no swimming). In between the clearings, the feeling of isolation is absolute. The trail is well maintained and fairly flat. It isn’t a loop so you can decide at what point turning back makes sense for you.
I have never been too bothered by flies or mosquitoes but repellent is always a good idea. This hike is easier to plan than the Orlando Wetlands one because most of the trail is under the forest canopy and therefore never too hot, even around midday in the summer. The only thing to watch for are strong thunderstorms during the rainy season: they could make the trail muddy.
You may not see many people, although you may hear the occasional horse rider (they have their own trail in a clearing further away from the river bank), but you’ll come back feeling like a jungle explorer.
How to get there: the Barr Street trailhead is just off North County road 426 in Oviedo. Entrance is $2 per person, to be paid online via Reserve America (there is no visitor center there). Travel time from downtown Orlando is about thirty minutes, and fifty minutes from Disney World.
A real safari to drive by tons of Florida gators: Lake Apopka wildlife drive.
Who knew you could fly to Florida and go on a safari? This is actually one of the two wildlife safari drives you can do around Orlando – the other one, Black Point Wildlife Drive, is located within the Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge, near cape Canaveral, and can be a great alternative if you’re visiting Kennedy Space Center that day.
Lake Apopka is one of the biggest lakes in the state of Florida, and situated about fifteen miles northwest of Orlando. The wildlife drive uses a narrow road that crosses the wetlands before leading to the lake itself, and then back in the wetlands.
Along the way, you’re almost guaranteed to see many Florida gators, some of them very big (I remember seeing a 10-feet long gator one day. It’s kind of scary! Thankfully it showed no desire to have me for lunch). You’ll see tons of birds, especially in winter: coots, waterfowl, herons, egrets… just keep your eyes wide open and you’ll be amazed.
The safari is done by car, but bikes can access the trail and a few others before the main wildlife drive one. A great resource to know more about the drive is here.
How to get there: the drive entrance is on Lust road (Google Maps link), off of Florida toll road 414. It’s a 25mn drive from Downtown Orlando, and about 35mn from Disney World.
Things to know: the drive is only currently open Friday to Sunday from 7am to 3pm. Check updated access information here. The drive is one way and narrow so plan 90mn to two hours to from beginning to end, including many stops along the way to watch wildlife. The Florida heat can be strong especially at midday, and there is absolutely no shade on the drive so bring sunscreen and water. Keep children close to you and do not approach or try to feed wildlife.
A detailed map of the drive can be found here. Have fun!
Walking in gorgeous leafy streets along peaceful lakes: the SoDo neighborhood.
This is probably Orlando’s best kept secret. SoDo, or South of Downtown, is a quaint residential neighborhood just south of Orlando’s Central Business District. Bordered by Interstate I-4 to the west and Florida Highway 408 to the north, it comprises of a very commercial artery, Orange avenue, lined up with busy stores and restaurants.
Take a side street however, and soon you’ll be far away from the hubbub of the city and into a peaceful network of gorgeous streets lined up with beautiful homes and impeccable gardens.
The most convenient way to experience the neighborhood is to park along Cherokee park and walk a loop around lake Cherokee and lake Davis. There is a well-maintained sidewalk most of the way (and the parts where you have to walk on the street hardly see any traffic at all, so the whole walk is extremely safe). Both lakes are surrounded by beautiful trees and make the neighborhood feel like a great oasis in the middle of one of Florida’s biggest city.
You may see runners, people walking their dog or just relaxing on one of the many benches that dot the lakes’ promenade. You will notice many birds on or around the lakes. Lake Davis is famous for its swans (bring lettuce if you want to feed them, do not give them any processed food), but it also houses geese, herons, egrets, ducks and many others. I have seen a few turtles on occasion as well.
The lake Cherokee – lake Davis walk should take around 30 minutes. If you feel more ambitious, instead of looping around lake Davis, continue east on Gore street and make a right into lake Emerald drive to walk by the eponymous lake, then check out lake Weldona.
If you want to take this even further – and trust me it is worth it – head south on Ferncreek avenue and walk along Lake Lancaster, make a left on Lancaster drive and then follow the lake bank all the way to Kaley street. You’ll see majestic oak trees that may remind you of historical neighborhoods in Savannah, Georgia, and the panorama across the lake is stunning.
Once on Kaley, walk on the south side of the street (there is a dedicated walking path which is much nicer than the narrow sidewalk on the northern side) all the way to Delaney avenue, then make a right. Delaney avenue will lead you right back to Cherokee park. Note that once you get to Kaley, you could also make a left to reach local favorite ice-cream store, Kelly’s. Tons of fun flavors are available, including vegan and no-sugar-added ones. It’s a nice stop, and the back garden is shaded so your ice-cream doesn’t melt too fast.
The walk is even more beautiful just before sunset, and best avoided between noon and 4pm during the summer, because of the Florida heat (although unlike the Apopka Wildlife Drive, this walk is mostly shaded).
Orlando frequent flyers are used to the advertising messages about “the City Beautiful” broadcast endlessly in the trains that shuttle millions of travelers between the check-in areas and the gates every year at MCO. They always end with the famous line “we hope you enjoy your Orlando experience”. I hope that this entry will make you enjoy Orlando even more, and perhaps discover another side of it beyond its expected theme parks.
Images from top to bottom: lake Davis before sunset (with an anhinga spreading its wings), a view over Orlando Wetland park, the entrance to the Little Big Econ state forest Barr Street trail, a very big Florida alligator resting while on a safari on lake Apopka Wildlife Drive, lake Davis at sunset.
All photos are mine.