A day in Real de Asientos, Mexico.
Our Lady of Bethlehem church on the zócalo in Real de Asientos.
Close to the border with Zacatecas, this quiet pueblo mágico feels like Aguascalientes’ best kept secret.
When I planned a short trip to the state of Aguascalientes, I allocated two days for travel (the bus trip from Mexico City takes more than six hours) and three days to visit, I hoped, the eponymous state capital and three pueblos mágicos out of the four in the state.
This proved to be too ambitious, and I had to reassess priorities. I spent a day discovering the city of Aguascalientes, and I knew I wanted to get to Calvillo, because its nickname of the “guava capital of the world” had grabbed my attention way before the trip was even decided.
I had one day left, and it seemed hard to visit two magical towns in that timeframe. I decided to leave Pabellón de Hidalgo and San José de Gracia for another time, to focus on Real de Asientos.
I am not exactly sure why I picked Asientos out of the three. In hindsight, I was probably attracted to the cute colonial vibe I could sense from what little was available online about the town, while Pabellón de Hidalgo is more famous for its historical role in the Mexican revolution, and San José de Gracia for its natural wonders.
Two doors in the center of the village of Real de Asientos.
In any case, here I was, sitting on a bench at the Central de Combis, the bus station for colectivos, the informal network of minivans bringing people to and from towns and villages to the north of Aguascalientes city. Among the twenty or so minibus waiting to depart, none were going to Real de Asientos, but a helpful driver told me to wait, and one would come “ahorita”.
“Ahorita” is a word I used to dread because in Mexican Spanish, it can mean anything from “soon” to “whenever I feel like it” to “I have no idea when this will happen but I need you off my back”. I politely decided to take the man at his word, assuming he had the best intentions in mind, and that a minibus would show up soon. Indeed, after ten minutes or so, a white Toyota HiAce with a big “ASIENTOS” sign under its windshield slid in one of the parking spaces, and off I went.
Nothing was perfect, it just was, and locals didn’t seem to mind.
The town’s name is a fascinating testament to its history. Initially populated by nomadic Chichimeca tribes, the region’s fate was transformed in the 16th century when Spanish settlers found silver in the soil nearby, and in 1548, the town was created and took the name of one of its founder, Diego de Ibarra, as El Real Minero de Nuestra Señora de Belén de los Asientos de Ibarra.
Real Minero was the name given to strategic mining towns in territories dominated by the Spanish Crown, and could be translated in English as “Royal Mines”. Today, although the name of the town is officially only “Asientos”, it is still colloquially known as Real de Asientos, a reminder of its history as a rich mining town, similar to another charming mining town in the state of Hidalgo, Real del Monte.
Arches on the side of the main square in Real de Asientos.
Silver mining defined the history of much of the northern part of Mexico, as seen in Aguascalientes, which was also part of the Silver Route. Real de Asientos was close to several silver mines which brought the town a lot of riches, especially at the peak of their exploitation, in the early 18th century. The remnants of this are everywhere to be seen in the village. As soon as I stepped off the combi, I felt like I had crossed a couple of centuries.
Getting to Real de Asientos was an adventure in itself, but one I thoroughly enjoyed. The town was the minivan’s last stop on a route where people get on and off as they pleased. Minivans like the one I rode are the primary mode of transportation for a lot of Mexican people without a car, and as such, I witnessed children going to school, merchants going from village to village with their wares, and many people just going to the next town over, there and gone in the space of a few minutes.
The minivan followed federal highway 25 towards Loreto, the first town in the neighboring state of Zacatecas, until Cienega Grande, where it stopped at what was the terminus for many other services (which is, in fact, just a small passenger shelter on a dusty sidewalk, flanked by a couple of idle taxis and curious street dogs). The last few miles of the trip occurred on federal highway 22, with large expanses of fields on both sides of the road.
Asientos is somewhat sheltered, on the right side of the highway, and the town didn’t really appear in front of us until the very last minute. It’s nestled in a shallow valley that almost felt like an oasis, with greenery that was surprisingly abundant in this semi-arid region.
Our Lady of Guadalupe church in Real de Asientos.
I got off the minivan and started exploring. The village isn’t big, and its colonial buildings are located within close distance of each other. Very soon, I got to the zócalo, the town’s main square, and that’s where the beauty of the town hit me.
I am partial to historical towns that feel authentic and lived in. I am not a big fan of towns, no matter how beautiful, that have been Disneyfied and look like a Photoshopped version of themselves for unsuspecting tourists. Real de Asientos wasn’t like that. The town’s colonial buildings were all gorgeous, and you could easily see the genius of Spanish urban planning in how the town was initially built.
At the same time, there was a sense of realness, probably made even stronger by the total absence of tourists on this late-spring weekday. Some buildings were in need of repair, and some needed a paint job. Nothing was perfect, it just was, and locals didn’t seem to mind.
I was instantly attracted by this laid-back atmosphere, the sense that life was happening at its own pace, that I was welcome here but not about to be surrounded by tacky tourist shops. I just wanted to sit down, grab a coffee or a quesadilla and watch the world go by.
The Ex-Convento del Señor del Tepozán near Real de Asientos.
I didn’t do that - it was a little too early for lunch, anyway - and instead started walking around, almost aimlessly, trying to immerse myself in the life of the village.
The zócalo was, like in a lot of magical towns, the main point of focus, and Asientos’ didn’t disappoint. It was laid out as a perfect square, in the middle of which sat a leafy, welcoming park, and was surrounded on some of its sides by beautiful, shaded arcades. It also housed the magnificent Our Lady of Bethlehem church.
Real de Asientos is nestled in a shallow valley that almost felt like an oasis.
The church, a perfect example of Spanish colonial architecture, was built in 1705 and dedicated to the patron saint of the town. It housed the oldest bell in Aguascalientes and also displayed the Christ of the Holy Burial, which was apparently assembled from human remains four hundred years ago.
Beyond the main square, I found a lovely, shaded square, the Alameda Rangel park. Compared to the grand zócalo, this felt intimate and quiet and I sat down for a bit (it helped that Asientos’ squares have free wifi). The park needed a little TLC, but it sort of added to its charm. It was a beautiful opportunity to relax away from the sun.
The colorful interior of the adjacent church to the ex-convent near Real de Asientos.
I continued my exploration towards the Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe church, at the other end of the village. The cute, white church sat at the end of a weirdly shaped square lined with colorful houses, next to an elevated, wrought-iron kiosk. There was no one around, and it felt like I had the village to myself.
It was now time to eat, and I wanted to get a gordita or two at Erika’s restaurant, a hole-in-the wall place tucked in a corner of the main square that I had noticed earlier, but it was now 1pm, which was closing time. If you’re hungry before then, do not hesitate to check it out. It was fairly busy with locals earlier in the day, which is always a good sign.
Instead, I sat down at Restaurante Puente Nacional, on the other side of the street. Clocking me as a stressed out tourist, the nice lady who welcomed me suggested I picked the menu del dia (that day’s special), which was already made and would be on my table in a matter of minutes. She told me this was what she served the mine workers, and she had some left. I was happy to oblige, and a few minutes later, a hearty bouillon with meat and a side of tortillas appeared in front of me. It was simple but delicious, and once again, I was happy to taste a side of authentic Asientos life.
Eating had given me a second wind, and as I left the restaurant, I decided to venture outside of the village to visit the Ex-Convento del Señor del Tepozán.
A colorful street in the center of Real de Asientos.
Sitting along the federal highway, about 20 minutes away from the main square by foot, the convent was built in the early 17th century and presented unusual architectural features for the period: narrow corridors, uneven ground, small cells, and tightly wound doors. It was named after a miraculous Christ found in a tepozán tree (also known as a butterfly bush). The simple convent contrasted forcefully with the vibrant interior of the adjacent church, adorned with a mix of pink, green and blue pastel hues.
I walked back to town, sat down under a shaded arcade at the edge of the main square, and, around 4pm, walked a block and a half to the combi terminal.
The drive back to Aguascalientes was uneventful, and after a little more than an hour of frequent stop-and-gos to pick up and drop off passengers, we arrived in the capital. I was pretty spent by my day, so I headed directly to my hotel to enjoy the feeling of a cold, air-conditioned room after a day of wandering in the sun in one of my favorite magical towns in Mexico so far.
Keep reading below for every bit of practical information you may need on Real de Asientos.
Practical information (updated as of July 2025)
Getting to Real de Asientos
Visiting this magical town is usually undertaken from the city of Aguascalientes. To know how to get to Aguascalientes from the US or Mexico City, see here, in the Practical Information section.
There is no bus service to Real de Asientos. The only public transport system available is colectivos, informal minibuses also called combis, running on a semi-regular schedule from the Central de Combis Aguascalientes, located just to the north of the city’s central district (here).
Combis leave for many destinations from there, so look for the ones with the word “ASIENTOS” plastered in big, black letters on the minibus’ front.
Combis leave every twenty minute or so, and stop anywhere along the way to pick up or drop off passengers. Real de Asientos is the last stop. It takes about 75 minutes to get there, and the minibuses drop you at parking spot that serves as their -also informal- mini bus terminal (here), seconds from the center of town. The one-way fare to Real de Asientos is MXN36, cash only, to be paid to the driver upon exit.
Note that combis don’t have assigned seating, offer comfort that’s basic at best, but are safe and cheap. They don’t have A/C either, but if you don’t have a rental car to check out Asientos, combis are your only option.
Combis usually run during daylight hours, which should absolutely be fine for a day trip.
When to go to Real de Asientos
The state of Aguascalientes enjoys a semi-arid climate that’s pleasant almost year-round, and as such, Real de Asientos is pretty much a go-whenever-you-want destination. I can personally attest it gets very hot in May and June, but it’s a dry heat that is much more bearable than summer in Florida, for instance. It does rain from June to September, but like in the rest of the Mexican high plains, these summer rains usually happen towards the end of the afternoon and only last a couple of hours. You can still enjoy beautiful, sunny days before and after, so do not let that stop you.
Safety
Unlike neighboring states, like Zacatecas or Guanajuato, Aguascalientes is considered by the US Department of State as safe as major European countries, with a level 2 travel advisory, meaning “Exercise increased caution when traveling”. As such, there are no more precautions to take while you visit the state than whatever you would in Sweden or Ireland.
Real de Asientos, although extremely close to the Zacatecas border, couldn’t feel more peaceful, especially on a weekday.
It’s always good to know where you’re headed before getting out on the street, as as a general advice, to not flash expensive clothing, cameras or phones. Don’t make yourself a target, but, on the other hand, you won’t need to look over your shoulder every second or so.
Just keep an eye on the US Department of State travel advisory before confirming your plans, as the states in northern Mexico can see dramatic swings in safety.
Food
Erika’s restaurant, on the main square, serves Gorditas that looked delicious (I didn’t sample them but the tables were filled with locals seemingly enjoying their food). The restaurant closes at 1pm, so if you’re hungry before that, I would recommend you checked it out. Cash only.
Restaurante Puente Nacional - on the other side of the road, by Erika’s Gorditas, sits this unassuming, traditional place that caters to mine workers. The food was simple but hearty and delicious, and the service friendly and warm. Cash only.
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